Day 10 - Loving Riga

Having looked at the map it seemed a good idea to get the Bolt taxi to the Art Nouveau area which was the area furthest away from the campsite that we planned to visit. (it came in 3 minutes and cost €5).

We were blown away by the buildings in the art nouveau area. This architecture makes up about a third of all the buildings in the centre, making Riga the city with the highest concentration of anrt nouveau architecture anywhere in the world. Built during a period of rapid economic growth, most of Riga's Art Nouveau buildings date from between 1904 and 1914. The style is most commonly represented in multi-storey apartment buildings. We got sore necks looking up as the streets were quite narrow and there were so many appendages to the buildings - carvings of angels, animals and gargoyles. We saw a plaque stating Isaiah Berlin, who was born in Riga, had lived in one for a short time around 1920.

From there we walked via the older -style museum, and the gold-domed Nativity of Christ Cathedral which we entered. It was glitzy with bling. From there we walked through gardens to Independence Square and down to the Powder Tower, dating from 1330. It’s the only preserved of the 28 that formed the walled fortification of Riga. From there we went to see The Cat House, so named as there are two cat sculptures on its roof. By then we were ready for something to eat but didn’t fancy the expensive places in the nearby square. I did pop in to one to use their loo, having been taught well by #2 daughter who has been known to do the same in the Savoy in London.

We decided to walk on to the river and go up on Vansu Tilts (bridge) to get a view of the Castle and church spires. The bridge has lots of heavy traffic but half the pedestrian bit at the side was cordoned off as it is rusting and is disintegrating into the river.

Heading back near a small church we found a little cafe which sold the pink soup for €3.50 (served with bread in Latvia).
Mr C splashed out €6.50 on a huge plate of chicken, potatoes and grated pickled cabbage and carrot. It was really nice. My soup had spring onions in it which gave a nice bite as well as the cucumber. The egg was just a bit of crumbled hard-boiled used as garnish with the dill.

Refreshed, we walked towards Town Hall Square where lots of people were looked at the outside of House of the Black Heads. This is a stunning building originally built in 1334 as a meeting place for various public organisations. Then it was the most prestigious building in the city centre. The Black Heads, an association of young unmarried merchants, goldsmiths and shipbuilders became the tenants at the end of 15th century. The building was destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt 25 years ago.

It was only a two-minute walk to the Mentzendorff House, a half-timbered dwelling dating back to the 16th century and although we were greeted by the same grumpy welcome, this time we were allowed in for €5 each. It was fascinating and shows what a prosperous German home looked like in 17-18th centuries. It was restored late 20th century. Some original wall painting were uncovered and its restored interior includes trompe l’oeil wall decor inspired by Antoine Watteau and painted wooden ceilings. The period furniture came from the museum. In the cellar there was an exhibition of glass and a few bits of jewellery made by students. I bought some earrings for €8.

We called a Bolt which came in 2 minutes and in another 10 we were back in our camp for €4 in time for some coffee and cake. The weather has been mixed cloud and sun - warm when the sun is out otherwise it’s fleece on.

Now to plan the next stage of our travels!