Day 1, Irún to San Sebastián

After yesterday’s meagre meals and a short sleep I was pleased to wake up feeling refreshed and more energised than I have for a while. I snaffled most of my breakfast for later and left around 8, a good hour after all the other pilgrims. It was overcast, nicely warm and a bit drizzly, perfect walking conditions for the first stage which is one of the more intimidating ones. The main decision to make is whether to take the haute route with a formidable ascent in just 300m or the longer less arduous lower route. In the event the thick cloud and proper rain made the decision for me, attempting the high path would have been reckless and without point. A young woman from South Korea decided to give it a go which was the final deciding factor for me, I really did not want to feel responsible for any mishap.

I passed about 5 pilgrims on the lower route and most of us had minor falls on the treacherously slippy descents. I got off very lightly, my focus temporarily elsewhere as I chatted to three small girls playing outside a farmhouse. I think the mild drama made their morning.

I reached Pasajes de San Juan ahead of schedule, caught the ferry across the port, extra, and stopped for an espresso cortada and a mini bolas de Berlin.

Another steep ascent to the top of Mount Ulia with fabulous views towards the Witches’ Rocks and the La Plata lighthouse, extra, and a slightly less slippery descent into San Sebastián. The rain had stopped and weak sun was enough to partially dry the stone mule track.

A great first day, 930m ascent and just under 27k.

Now going out to explore San Sebastián and endeavour to have a decent meal.
Later… found a wonderful pintxo place where all the rations were numbered and you filled in a sort of spreadsheet with how many of each you wanted. Washed them down with another coffee which for once is unlikely to impact my sleep.