Looking down on Quinta Grande

From the Levada Norte as it contours around the mountainside at 800m crossing two farming areas of Campanário and Quinta Grande to finish at the amazing viewpoint of Cabo Girão 2000 feet above Funchal - a gentle 7 mile flat hike today, much needed after yesterday’s exertions. In the end we totalled 54 miles in 6 days.

Of all the Levada walks this was by far the best. While there were trees and shady spots there were far more extensive views than on the previous Levada walks.

In todays shot the winding secondary roads snake their way up and along the ravine like valleys through settlements clinging to the precipitous slopes with small areas of cultivation chiseled out to create terraces where sweet potatoes, squash, sweet corn, sugar cane, beans, apples and bananas are grown.

In the distance is one of the expressways that bludgeons its way along the coast leaping over valleys on viaducts and boring through headlands.to speed traffic between the main settlements.

After the privations of yesterday’s hotel today’s is pure decadence. We were upgraded to a suite, the sitting room of which is twice the size of yesterday’s bedroom. And a huge separate bedroom too.

We availed ourselves of the pools and jacuzzi then met in Jane snd Adam’s room for fizz and nibbles to set us up for dinner in Funchal. The restaurant we planned to go to had closed so we went to one nearby and were not disappointed.

We had a glass of Madeira, my dear, and a fish skewer with salmon, swordfish, scabbard fish, tuna and sea bream just grilled, it was the most wonderfully cooked and delicious fish you could imagine.

It’s lovely and mild, sitting out on the balcony, enjoying the ambiance. We fly back tomorrow, but not until 18.45 so we have most of the day to explore the area - after a leisurely breakfast of course. No need to be ready for the transfer at 9.00 am tomorrow.

And my verdict on the week?

Best walk, Dragons Tail on Wednesday, followed by Porto do Cruze on Tuesday. Today’s Levada comes third. Fourth would Levada do Furado and joint last was yesterday’s unfortunate free fall of almost 5,000 feet and the Levada trail to Camacha.

The arrangements and attention to detail by the travel company were first class as was the app we used to guide us along the trail, mapping our progress in real time and giving precise instructions as to the route and its attractions.

Last night’s hotel was definitely the worst. Small room and small hard bed and noisy with a wedding when it seems that other guests were sidelined. Tonight’s hotel and the previous 4 star hotels were excellent as was the first hotel in Machico. The country guest house grew on us even though the drinks were expensive.

The highlights? The dragons tail trail. The spectacular volcanic scenery and the settlements clinging to the valley sides will long be part of our memories. Will we come back? Well, there’s the western part of the island to explore but a whole host of other places still to visit. Someone mentioned Croatia?