Purgatorio

We walked down the steps from St Elmo into town, through the Port ‘Alba and back down Tribunali, stopping off for breakfast pastries (had the ‘soft’ version of sfogliatelle, this time, and a big custard-filled bun called a ‘bombe’, or such-like) and then pushing on to the Duomo. We checked in with Saint Gennaro and then came back up the Spaccanapoli, enjoying the crowds, the Maradona worship, the general crazy atmosphere, before cutting back across Via Purgatorio to visit the church of Santa Maria delle anime dei Purgatorio ad Arco and take a few illicit photos of skulls and death cult offerings in the spooky oratory behind the basement ‘anti-church.’ Then we went up to the Archeological Museum for a light lunch and a couple of hours of preparing ourselves for tomorrow’s trip to Pompei. Afterwards we checked out the contemporary art gallery MADRE, which was half-price as it was half-closed between exhibitions: I can only hope it was the good half that was shut as what was left was pretty uninspiring (and there was no sign of the promised café…!) There was some decent graffiti down the side though. We got the Metro home to wind-down a bit and then headed back into town for a dinner at a nice restaurant just of the Spaccanapoli that we’d pre-booked – some very nice rigatoni ragu, cod with olives and tomato sauce and caprese salad…