Temples, Ryokans and Geishas

Sorry - a rather long entry! 

The next stage of our adventure starts with a taxi to Tokyo Station - which is absolutely huge! We have our tickets, but it takes some time to actually find the platform for our train, but we’ve allowed time so there’s no mad panic - and people are so helpful. 

We’re travelling to Nagano on the Shinkansen service - so it’s our first experience of the ‘bullet train’. We have reserved seats which are comfortable with great leg room, and of course the train is spotless.  

We glide out of the station and seem to take an age to actually get beyond the urban sprawl of Tokyo and into the countryside - when the train really picks up speed. We can see snow on the mountains in front of us, but despite this, the prospect of snow seems very distant. 

We arrive in Nagano - on time of course - and then have the problem of finding how to get to Yudanaka. This is not a JR line, so it involves actually finding a different station. G has been doing all the navigation in Tokyo, so it’s my turn to take over. I leave him with the luggage looking very confused, and follow signs leading down escalators and passages to find the station. Then I try to find out when the next train is - nobody seems to speak English, but fortunately I eventually find a timetable and there’s a train leaving this afternoon. 

I return to G and we find luggage lockers, visit a tourist information counter and catch a bus up to Nagano’s Zenkoji temple - one of the most important temples in Japan. 

The weather is once more stunning, and even better, it becomes evident that Nagano has had recent snow with remnants anywhere shaded from the sun. We’re dropped just outside the temple’s first massive gates, and through these we’re surprised to see the street up to the main gates is lined with shops and cafes - all traditional wooden construction and very tasteful! This whole complex is up on a hill and we keep getting views to the snowy mountains against the clearest blue sky. Every where we look there’s interest and beauty - little shrines and statues, wood carvings, lanterns. 

And then when we reach the main temple complex we begin to realise its magnificence. It dates from the 7th century and houses the first Buddhist statue to be brought to Japan, and the main hall dates back to 1707 - amazingly not having succumbed to fire or earthquakes. Once again we witness two services with the now familiar chanting and drums, and the beauty of the buildings against the sky and mountains is just breathtaking.  

We can’t stay long as it’s time to get back to the station, collect our luggage and catch our next train. Soon we’re very gradually climbing and starting to see more snow.. Before long we reach Yudanaka and the snow is by now really thick. Of course, everywhere looks magical.  

We’re staying at a Japanese inn or Ryokan in Shibu Onsen and get picked up at the station with several other guests. We arrive at the onsen as it gets dark and already things look magical with traditional snow-covered buildings and twinkling lights. With several new arrivals, everything is a bit confusing, but we each have our own staff member to check us in. First it’s boots off and slippers on - no shoes beyond the threshold. Then there are questions and explanations - lots - before we’re taken on a guided tour of the ryokan en route to our room. There are many ‘Onsen’ or natural mineral baths within the ryokan apparently each with their own special qualities - all fed by the hot springs that are on the property. Our host - I suspect the owner, dressed beautifully in a kimono - points each out and explains how we can book them. We can also use several other Onsen in the village. We say nothing, but it’s likely we’ll only use our own private one. 

We arrive at our room with its tatami matting - so slippers off and left at the door. There’s a low table and even lower chairs in the middle of the room, the table covered in blankets and quilts. We can sit here, legs underneath the table, cocooned in warmth as the blanket is heated - we try it and it’s lovely. While we’re at dinner, staff will come to set out our futons, and at breakfast, they’ll return them to the storage cupboard. We have green tea made for us by our hostess, and a little traditional Japanese sweet as a treat. 

We have our own toilet and shower - often there are only shared facilities in ryokans and for obvious reasons, that’s something I’d find it hard to cope with, so this is ideal.  Mind you, the shower is outside alongside our own private onsen and by now it’s close to freezing! 

We have been given a yukata to wear inside - or for visiting other onsen in the village. It’s a check cotton garment - a cross between a kimono and a dressing gown. But as it’s the middle of January, we also have a much heavier version to wear as well. Both are tied - again rather like a kimono - and certainly G looks very distinguished! 

Dinner is at 6.00pm and dressed in our yukatas we struggle down the three flights of stairs in our slippers and long garments! The restaurant is delightfully organised with each couple or family in their own section with either screens or blinds pulled down for privacy. And then the food starts to arrive …… Oh my goodness, the presentation is stunning - everything is beautifully placed in the most exquisite bowls and dishes. 

Obviously there’s an emphasis on fish - often raw - and the sashimi is delicious. However, as I don’t  eat red meat, the substitute is predictably tofu which I really don’t like - and it seems that every course involves tofu in some form or another! There’s a dish cooked at the table over individual burners. G has wagu beef, but I have …..tofu! It’s still a delicious meal, and I end up turning down the rice and miso soup that arrive at the end! I am absolutely full! 

But things don’t end there. Once a week they have a geisha performance and tonight’s the night. There is an extra charge, but we decide this will be a good alternative to the Kyoto one we’ve booked - and can cancel. 

Our lady host reserves front row seats for us - not sure why - but we thoroughly enjoy watching a clearly accomplished and beautiful young woman entertain us with her geisha skills. First there’s dancing, then singing - and she has a wonderfully expressive voice - then she sits on the floor to play the shamisen. She plays with skill and emotion, and tunes the recalcitrant strings perfectly.  Then she sings to her own accompaniment. It’s quite magical. 

After the performance, we can go to the bar next door - which involves wearing those heeled wooden slip ons which feel very precarious - for the ‘free’ drink that’s come with our ticket, have photos taken with the geisha, and play geisha games. We’re really not interested in the photos but go along with it, and I’m certainly not up to playing games. Interestingly, it’s the men who take up the challenge! The game is rather like rock, paper, scissors and she sings at the same time. It’s surprisingly enjoyable to watch and she is such good fun. There is drinking involved too - small cups of sake must be drunk as penalties! Of course, G takes part and it’s hilarious. 

Whilst it’s been a wonderful evening, I’m really struggling by now and we say our goodbyes and make our way back. I’m coming down with one of my chesty coughs and I’m desperate to get to sleep but I know it will be difficult. And tomorrow we have a big day as we’re off to see the snow monkeys! 


I was going to use a geisha shot for my main, but the light was so bad they’re really grainy. So my main is the Zenkoji temple, with extra collage and one other shot. There’s also a collage of the geisha performance and our meal!