Lipari Sunrise

We were up at the crack of dawn to get a very early ferry back to the Sicily mainland. Arriving at Milazzo on a beautiful morning with plenty of time to spare for our train to Naples, we made a massive error in deciding to go directly to the station. After failing miserably to find a bus, we took a taxi ride, to be dumped in the middle of nowhere. We hadn’t done our research. The station has been rebuilt out of town, in an ultra modern style, devoid of character and, most tragically, devoid of anywhere to get a coffee. What kind of madness is that? Worse was to come, when our train arrived, we discovered there to be no restaurant car, just an unfathomable vending machine. We experienced the train being loaded on to the ferry again, enjoying wonderful views of Messina, and I’m still tickled by such an improbable concept. It makes it even more remarkable that while going to such lengths to make it unnecessary to leave the train, there is no concession to providing refreshment along the way. The tickets were cheap and we’re hostages to someone being able to make a fortune!


We duly arrived in Naples and found the way to our AirBnb, situated near the situation, at the top of an old tenement, up a very steep and narrow staircase. I was happy we hadn’t been staying here directly after the marathon. We walked around the old city until it got dark, somewhat overwhelmed by the density of everything. Earlier, we’d spotted a restaurant from the roof terrace of where we were staying and made the same error of not doing any research. Soon after we sat down and ordered, a huge party of school children arrived and that should have been a clue. It wasn’t that the food was bad. It was just bland - although it could be said that bland is bad food. Everything we’d eaten so far on the trip has been fabulous. When I went inside to pay, it literally had the look and feel of a school canteen! But at least it was cheap. Just 18 euros for the two of us, including a third of a bottle of wine each! Just not quite the experience I’d planned for our last night out in Italy.

I’m still something of an advocate for not researching too much in advance. Serendipity is usually a pretty good guide. Also, you have a much better story to tell. These are the days that get remembered.