The art of the sea

I am eager to visit the Mudas gallery on Madeira’s southwest coast. We passed it on our last visit to the island, but missed out on an actual visit as it was closed. Designed by architect Paulo David, Mudas.Contemporary Art Museum has received international awards for its ‘architecture and seamless integration into the landscape’ I’m fascinated by the way architects interpret spaces to display art - the use of light and space, the choice of material etc. 

Certainly, the location of Mudas is spectacular, the sea in front, Madeira’s spectacular hills behind. High on the sea cliffs, the views are wonderful - even on an afternoon when rain clouds are gathering. The low grey concrete structure almost disappears into the rocks, the planted roof gardens adding to its integration. Inside, there are windows onto both sea and land - though I must admit to having hoped for more. Light comes largely from artificial sources, but the sense of space enhances the feeling of lightness. 

Visiting national art collections can, I feel, create a feeling of disassociation; this is particularly true of the main exhibition which reflects Portugal’s recent past. We’re ashamed to admit that we knew little of the Carnation Revolution, the bloodless uprising in April 1974 against nearly 50 years of dictatorship - the longest endured by any European country. 

Other work includes the usual range of contemporary offerings - questionable blocks of single colours, expanses of indistinguishable shapes, a dining chair balancing on tablespoons …… But there are plenty of others which offer an easier path between artist and viewer. Whatever is exhibited, it is the exhibition space I love - both inside and out. 

Then there’s the art of the sea itself, and we spend some time just  strolling along the prom at Jardim do Mer where despite the apparent calm of the sea, waves break against the shore with rumbling ferocity forming ever changing sculptures of water and spray rising high into the air. The geometric concrete structures edge that edge the seaward side of the sea wall are there to break the force - as they do in so many seaside towns - but they also form platforms for colourful crabs who seem to enjoy the intermittent salt spray from the waves - very occasionally loosing their grip.  They seem to be a sort of Sally Lightfoot Crab - not as colourful or numerous as those in the Galapagos - and are also known as Nimble Spray Crabs for obvious reasons. 


My main’s a view across the Mudas building to the sea, with extras of the interior, waves and crabs at Jardim do Mar, cloud burst over the sea from the gallery, and the prom at Jardim do Mar