A Tale of Two Rocks

Valley of the Winds, Kata Tjuta, Northern Territory

Around 550 million years ago tectonic activity formed a range of mountains in what was to become central Australia. In front of this range kilometres below the inland sea that existed at the time were two large depressions, some 50km apart. Over time, these were filled with eroded material from the mountains. The heavier and large boulders fell into the closest depression, some 26 types of stone while the lighter material drifted out further to fill the second forming layers of sediment. A second period of tectonic activity some 340 million years ago pushed the material in the now filled depressions up from the surface, twisting them as they went. The sedimentary infill depression was punched up 90 degrees from its original position resulting in the horizontal layers turning vertical. The conglomerate infill depression was only twisted some 17 degrees. As the waters dried out and the land became arid, the monoliths of Uluru and Kata Tjuta that we know today were formed.

A 4:45 start this morning to get ready for a couple of trips today. Sunrise at Uluru would be followed in the afternoon with a trek through the valley of the winds at Kata Tjuta before watching the sun set over the magnificent domes.

As we set off towards Uluru, the night sky was being overtaken by the coming dawn. It was a gorgeous sight and I would have loved to have been able to stop and shoot it. Going with other people's schedules was always going to be the pay off on this part of the trip and both the new day and end of day silhouettes, both unique and wonderful in their own way were only ever viewed from the bus. If I were ever to return, I'm definitely hiring a car because the opportunities for these images are just amazing

To be honest, sunrise was not as impressive as sunset. The viewing area was mobbed which actually worked well for me because I moved forward to another lower trail and found a composition I liked and shot from there. With the sun coming over your shoulder the problem of shadows from the higher, tiered vantage point was an issue too that I didn't have. Instead, the foreground was lit in the same way Uluru was, firstly the tips of the trees and then as the sun ascended, the lightness encroached closer towards the camera. Hopefully that will be captured in the shots.

Not long after sunrise, we all got back on the bus to begin our tour of the rock and surrounding area. First stop was to the cultural centre. Along the way our driver/guide told us a few of the stories that the aboriginal people have shared. Aboriginal history is an oral one. there are no writings and it is the responsibility of the older generation to pass down this history along with the traditional skills and knowledge to the younger generation. Tribal law only allows information to be passed to individuals when they have reached a point that they are ready to receive the knowledge and so as uninitiated white people, for whom a certain level of distrust still exists, they have only shared three of the many tales surrounding Uluru and those have been told in the way grandparents would tell their grandchildren. Perhaps an appropriate analogy as the aboriginal presence at Uluru dates back some 23,000 years, compared to the first sighting of the rock by white explorers in the early 1800's. Each of the tales explains some of the geological features of the rock and its a fascinating insight into the belief system of the native people. As in my earlier visit to the Victorian aboriginal cultural centre, there is a definite feeling that white people are being tolerated in what are after all areas of spiritual significance for the aboriginal people. You definitely leave these places with a different feeling towards your visit than when you stared, and perhaps that's not a bad thing. One of the more unusual sights in the ranger station that forms part of the cultural centre, is the "sorry book". Many people take home small rocks or other souvenirs from their visit and this is said to bring bad luck. This book is pages of letters of apology sent by people asking for their souvenirs to be put back so that their luck can be returned. Whether you believe it or not, there are lots of people who have attributed their run of bad luck with the taking of these stones.

Leaving the centre behind, with its plea not to go climbing Uluru, we set off to the climb site to drop off those who wanted to climb the rock. Unfortunately for those who intended doing this, the climb was actually closed due to high winds at the summit. We were told that the number of people climbing the rock has reduced drastically and in fact is just above 20% of visitors to the national park. Over the years, around 40 people have died as a result of climbing Uluru, either from falling or from heart attacks or the effects of dehydration. However, it is estimated that another couple of hundred deaths have occurred later after travellers have returned home as a result of the exertions of the climb. The 99 year lease negotiated with the federal government is reviewed every 5 years and it is expected that someday, climbing the rock will be banned.

We had been told at last nights sunset viewing that the red colour associated with Uluru was not the natural colour of the sandstone rock, which is grey, but rather as a result of the rusting effect due to the large iron content in the region. As you got closer to it, you could clearly see this. I don't think I've ever seen rock rust before, but I have now. We were taken round to one of the caves to take a look at the aboriginal art. As a result of early tourism activities, that resulted in guides continuously wetting the rock to make it clearer, a lot of the art around the rock is now faded and gone, but we were still able to see some here and get an explanation of what they knew. We then ventured down to the Mutitjula Waterhole, a wonderful natural well at the base of a cumulation of slopes. The well is refreshed from the rain and water falling from Uluru. Unfortunately, we were also told of the effects of accumulated pollution from tourists climbing the rock, where all sorts of detritus had been left behind. Recently, the lithium levels in the water have risen as a result of people even leaving used batteries on top of the rock. As the guide said, anything left on top will eventually make its way down to this waterhole. There are even plastics being left on the rock with people climbing in crocs, the soles of which are melting and leaving a trail up the walking path. We circumnavigated Uluru on the way back. The rock is still very sacred to the Aboriginal people and there are areas where they don't like being photographed. This includes some of the most wonderful eroded sculptures on the face of the rock. I didn't shoot, but the vision of one in particular will always stay with me. The giant imprint of a Mala tribesman's skull said to have been made by the vengeful devil dog set upon the tribe. It was incredible.

We returned to the resort, where I thought to begin my write ups for the past couple of days. I decided to rest my eyes a little first, but not trusting myself I set my alarm for getting up in time just in case. When my alarm went off...

It was off to Kata Tjuta. The landscape around the area is similar but still different to Uluru. All around is evidence of erosion from the conglomerate rocks that make this range. Like Uluru, the domes that can be seen above ground are but a small area of the actual rock, both of which are believed to extend 4-6km below the ground. The whole group made the fairly easy walk to the first lookout which itself afforded a wonderful view over the valley, before a decision had to be made. You could continue onwards to the second lookout through the valley of the winds or you could return to the start and take a shorter and easier wander along the gorge between two of the domes. Only six of the seventeen of us decided to go upto the second lookout. To be honest, it was mostly a fairly easy walk, with just a couple of more strenuous climbs. The first of those was easy enough going up, a smooth rock slope with a few footholds. Coming back down would be an altogether different proposition, although at the end of the day everyone made it fine. Our guide, Hannah, told us that this would have been the same sort of surface that anyone climbing Uluru would have met. The second climb was a set of steps cut into the rock. Again, no real problems except for the fact that it was at the end of a 3km walk. When everyone huffed up to the top we were once again met with a view that blew our minds. Made the climb worth the effort, looking across the valley. Just stunning.

On our way, Hannah, like all of the AAT Kings guides, provided a wealth of information on the area. It was fascinating and i could bore you even more to death with all sorts of interesting facts about the area, but I'll just telly of one. Passing by the snake vine we were warned not to touch the bright red berries. We were told that a single crushed berry, mixed into six glasses of water, would be enough to kill us all. A particularly nasty death as our internal organs would shutdown one after another. There is apparently no known remedy. Returning down the same path, we got to the coach and it was down the road to the Kata Tjuta sunset viewing lookout. We were treated to nibbles and wine while we waited for the sun to fall. When it did, we were treated to a spectacle every bit as amazing as the sight we'd seen at Uluru the night before. The colour change I'd say was even more evident as we were much closer to the rocks. Again, once the sun's rays had left the surface of the rock, turning it a dull brown, the bands of purple and white and yellow on the horizon framed the ever silhouetting profile beautifully. Of course, we still left far too early and once more we travelled through the most amazing scenes as the sun passed below the horizon. Visions burnt into my memory though!

A picked up some chicken teriyaki for dinner as I had to get all packed up and early to be for my even earlier start the next morning. After Kate though, I though a quick power nap was required. Unfortunately, I forgot to set my alarm as I had earlier so when I woke at midnight with my packing still to go.... Ugh! It didn't need to be a flight pack though, so things just got shoved in left, right and centre where they could go, before I slumped back to bed for another couple of hours before it was time to get up again.

I'm still a couple of days behind. It's been an exhilarating and energetic few days at the Red Centre but hopefully I'll be able to take things a little easier over the next couple of days in Sydney and get back up to date. I'm not normally bothered about linking to back blips but I think you'll like yesterday's! :-)