Yamba Vice

Fishing on the Clarence River, New South Wales

I set off from Coffs Harbour early doors. It was going to be a very full day today, full of blip meets. First destination was Yamba to meet OzBeachcomber.

The trip up was vey uneventful. I even took it in my stride when the sat nav took me off the Pacific Highway and down the "back roads" to skirt around the outskirts of the Yuraygir National Park, another vast area of tree lined roads, intermittently opening up to reveal swathes of grassland with the odd house here and there mixed in with the occasional town. The sun-kissed avenues of green, shades of green completely different from anything you'll see in Europe, are becoming as familiar to me as the golden sand beaches, yet each has it's own charm and unique vision. As I drove, my mind was burning more images into my memory.

Something I keep meaning to mention is the phenomenon of the FDR. As you enter and leave a lot of towns throughout Australia you are met with a coloured half pie chart board with an indicator pointing to the current Fire Danger Rating. You know that this is something taken very seriously when the second level of the six level rating is "High". The full system, "Low-Moderate", "High", "Very High", "Severe", "Extreme" and "Catastrophic" gives a visual indication of the potential levels of danger. Having heard the story of his experience in the severe bush fires of 2009 in Victoria from Jason earlier in my trip, I've been extremely glad to have only seen green (low-Moderate) throughout my trip, although I did once see a blue (High) marker, but I think that might have been a mistake. It was pouring down on my way to Ballarat that day!

Funnily, I'm only reminded about this (once more) because I'm turning my attention to the other extreme now. As I travelled along the local roads towards Yamba, I was reminded of the dangers ever present on the east coast of flood, which OzBeachcomber has documented herself all to often over the past couple of years. As you drive along, every so often you are met with the sight of white stakes in the ground marked out in metres used to provide an indication of water levels at a given point in the road. What strikes you though as you read off the heights is that you are driving, not along sunken roads or even roads level with the surrounding land, but in some cases, roads that are raised above that of the surrounding ground. Then it hits you as you look out over land as far as the eye can see, that if these roads are under 1 or 2 metres of water then so is the entire vista you are gazing upon, land that not only contains plants and trees, but homes and livestock. It's one of those thoughts that really blows your mind, incomprehensible to imagine unless you've actually experienced it. As I turned back onto the Pacific Highway (the detour cuts out the big bend in the main road that is Grafton) I soon found myself driving along the banks of the Clarence River. To say the sight was impressive is an understatement. The river was almost up to the banks and it was flowing fast. I would later find out that it was high tide, but even so, it left no doubt in my mind as the havoc it could wreak if the water levels rose only slightly. Seeing it, it was easier to imagine the storm-filled power that uprooted trees and deposited them on the sandy shores of Yamba not too long ago. Passing over the bridges into town wasn't much more comforting as the fast moving water lapped against the underside of the crown of the arches. It was quite unnerving. Then I was in Yamba. It's not the first time S has told of how they've been cut off. I now understand how.

After a minor hiccup by the sat nav, I arrived to be met by S and A at their home. Knowing the best way to my heart, a cuppa, some homemade baking and a wee natter on the patio in the sun followed, before we all jumped in the 4x4 for me to be given a whistle stop tour of the town. When S explained that Yamba was largely a tourist town now, busy in the summer and quiet in winter, I recounted my experiences of sleepy town Australia shutting down early. A though, trumped all my tales when he told me of the time he went to the chippy at 6pm and only just managed to get served! Of course, we stopped off at the lighthouse and the stretches of sandy shore and I asked my now obligatory question. "Do you know of any pebble beach's in Australia?" Another negative, although A did know of a couple shale beaches. Ah well, the search continues! :-)

Then it was back up to the house for what was to be a real treat of the holiday for me. During the pre-trip emails between us, S had asked whether I enjoyed boating and if I did, we could maybe go out on the river when I visited. My reply was along the lines of, "I don't know if I like it or not. I don't know anyone... with their own boat!" Haha, of course, I was up for it and it was a real joy and pleasure to be able to take them up on the offer. Once again, I've been bowled over by the generosity of my blip hosts.

S and A literally live 5 mins (is it even that far?) from the jetty so we were in the water in next to no time and off on a waterborne tour of the town. I regretted not packing my designer suits and shoes, but Jan Hammer's theme tune for Miami Vice was going through my head all the same as we powered through the water. The comparison wasn't far off (well, except for me thinking I was a tubbier, balder Don Johnson) as we passed by some very nice and expensive looking real estate lining the shores, each with their own private jetty. It was a sight to see indeed. We continued on our tour of the river as A pointed out various features and recounted tales of the sea and told me of some of the characters in and around the river. We ran over to the other side of the river to Iluka Bay for lunch, where I was treated (thank you both) to a fantastic meal of fish and chips. Cajun snapper. Another new taste of the sea for me and nice it was too. Another wee spin followed before heading back home, through the shallower waters of the lowering tide as we almost cut it too fine to get through the sandbars. A explained that these had shifted so much after the last heavy storm that the markers that denoted the line through them had been removed. It was a ginger manoeuvre to get through but it was done with aplomb. No rescue from sea today. Poor A was left to hoist the boat out of the water all by himself as S and I nattered post voyage. I did offer though... then it was back to the house for more tea and bun and chat. Heh, I was beginning to wonder how I managed to put on the weight before I did my write up's. But hey... I was on my holidays, so it doesn't count. Right?

All too soon though, it was time to leave, with more new friendships and memories cemented along the way. Thanks so much, S and A for a wonderful time. I hope you make it back over to the old country some day so I can repay your hospitality a little!

Back in the car, I had received an unexpected text from CB earlier. She was going to be travelling down to Byron and would meet me for dinner and a catch up. I phoned, but no reply so it was off to Byron Bay. About an hour and a half later I arrived and found a parking spot I thought I wouldn't get fined stopping at (I should really have looked to see what the hours on the limit signs meant). I phoned Christine again. Still no reply. So I set about putting Gitama's address in for my later trip to hers. Not found. Ooops! Just then my phone went. It was Christine. She hadn't answered before because she was still trying to find the place she was staying for the night. She was still looking and would phone me back. Hahaha... what a pair!

It took me a couple of calls (which included some unbelieving sighs from G) and a trip to the community centre before I spotted my rooky schoolboy error with the sat nav. Gitama doesn't stay in Byron Bay! Hahaha, oh how I laughed as I put in the correct town and surprise, surprise, the sat nav found its destination. D'Oh!

When Christine and I finally met up, we decided on Italian. Well we really just decided on the place closest to where we were. A nice wee catch up over pizza and a promise to pass on details of the plan for tomorrow... when I knew what it was going to be and yet another meal I didn't have to put my hand in my pocket for (thanks C!), before it was time to hop back in the car and head up to Gitama's, who was most generously putting up with me up for the next three nights in her home.

It was Jaiya who met me at the door, closely followed by a rousing welcome from the blip-famous Rumi. As I trundled my bag in G came down the stairs and it was hugs all round as I was welcomed warmly into the family abode. G's other blip muse, Flynn was tucked up in bed. It would be morning before he knew what had descended on his peace and quiet for the next few days! More nattering followed, surprise, surprise! As the hours passed, Jaiya decided it was time for bed and left me and G still planning for tomorrow. As plans went, this was, shall we say... fluid. At almost every stage, G added more to the itinerary. She had, I thought joked, during our pre-trip emails that she didn't have enough time to show me around everywhere. It wasn't an idle boast... I think it was about half eleven we first started taking about calling it a night (and I'd text Christine to let her know the only plan we had so far was we'd pick her up around 10am) but I think it was more like half one when we finally did turn in.

It certainly had been a full day. And brilliant to boot!