Sand, sea and shipwrecks

SS Maheno, Fraser Island, Queensland

One of the first items on my itinerary when I started planning the holiday was a trip to Fraser Island. It was also one of the first items to come off the plan as it matured. I just didn't think I was going to get up that far north. That all changed when Jenny recommended that I switch my whale watching trip from Sydney to Hervey Bay. Some last minute rescheduling later and I fixed myself up with a day trip to the world's largest sand island.

The day began with a 04:50 pick up. We were first on the list, so a drive around some Hervey Bay accommodation followed. Our driver/guide, Les, was a font of knowledge and he regaled us with all sorts of bits and pieces of information as we went, but he waited until the bus was full before giving us our first dingo talk. Among other things, Fraser Island is famous for being the habitat of the purest breed of dingo left in the world. The potential danger of meeting one or more of these beasts was drilled into us on more than one occasion through the course of the day. Don't shout or scream, wave your hands around or run away. The answer is to stand tall, look it in the eye and back off slowly. Apparently, dingoes prefer to attack from behind.

We arrived at River Heads and decanted from our city bus to take the ferry across to the island. The uneventful trip across took a little over half an hour. It was too far south for sighting whales, but we had been told there might have been a slim chance of seeing some turtles or dolphins, but no joy. Upon arrival we all spilt up into our tour groups and boarded our buses. I use the term loosely since our transports were in fact, converted trucks with passenger modules attached to the back. Once we were safely belted up in the back, we were on our way. Nothing prepared me for what was about to come. Throughout my trip, I've been asked to wear a seatbelt on the buses I've taken, but for once, I was welcome of the advice. It hadn't rained for a couple of weeks and that, combined with a number of 4x4's not lowering their tyre pressures enough (according to Les) meant the tracks were... bumpy. I mean, really, really bumpy! When I flew into Australia, we passed through a little turbulence. This was just like that, on the ground. We were all getting tossed about. Up and down, side to side. The kids were all having a ball, and while it was quite amusing for a while, after a few hours of travelling, it became a little wearying. That said, it didn't detract from the day.

Our first stop was Central Station. There is nothing left of the original settlement except for the empty clearing. Timber is big business on Fraser. Les continued to impart some pearls, such as how, in spite of it's size, there are few parts of the island that haven't been felled. In fact, much of it has been replanted up to three times. He also told us how some trees were transplanted from the north of the island to the southern area around Central Station, but as a result of the different soil conditons, they struggled to survive and took many years longer to grow. Some of the timber species growing here are among the most resilient to marine borers. In fact, such is the reputation of this now World Heritage listed area, that it's been used in far flung places as the Suez Canal and the London docks.

The only thing Fraser Island has more than tree's is sand. Very special sand, apparently! Unlike most sand, the sand here is perfectly spherical. No sharp edges. No uncomfortable stepping through it. Continuing our walk around the trail from Central Station, we came across our first water course. Having heard about the quality of the water and the crystal clear nature of it, I was surprise to see an obscured looking surface in front of me. As I moved close though, I realised that what I was actually looking at was the sandy bed of the creek. It took my eyes a few seconds to adjust and see the water flowing over it, as clear as advertised. Wow!

Back on the bus, our next stop was Lake McKenzie. Les had warned us not to be too disappointed with the colour of the water. He believed that the brochures were touched up a little to give the blue effect, and while the appearance was distinctly red/brown as a result of the tannin leaching from the trees that had fallen close to or into the water during the recent storms (I told you Les was a font of knowledge), up close it was still crystal clear. We had a short stay to allow those who wanted to swim a wee dip. It was busy and I didn't want to start shooting around all the swimmers, so, flaunting the rules about wandering alone in dingo land, I headed off to shoot in and around the lakeside.

A rollercoaster ride across to the other side of the island later, it was time for lunch. We stopped off at the Eurong Beach Resort for a buffet. Very nice it was too. This area was dingo protected. Fenced off, the only way in or out was across cattle grids. Unfortunately, apparently the dingoes have figured out how to cross, so the grids have now been electrified. So far, they haven't been able to overcome that. Back on the bus, it was time to head along 75 Mile Beach. I'll let you guess where the name came from. While we travelled along the shore, we could clearly see the damage wrought by the recent storms. Large portions of the back of the beach had fallen away, with a number of trees lying on their side. Others had been lost to the sea. Even so, Les was telling us how the island is constantly rebuilding itself and was evidenced by the fact that a number of exposed rocks he had noted just a few weeks ago were already partially or fully covered. There was a moment of excitement as we finally spotted a dingo. Sure enough, this fine specimen was down by the water's edge, its snout digging away in the sand. I have no idea what it had found, but it had its full attention. This was to be the only dingo we'd see throughout the day.

A rather unique opportunity was offered to us halfway along the beach as the boys from Air Fraser Island came on board. A couple of aircraft could take fourteen of us up for a spin above the island. Of course, I leapt at the chance. Reassuringly or not, you didn't have to pay up front. The company's motto is "If you don't land, you don't pay"! The following 15 mins were amazing as we took off and landed from the beach. Our first destination was seawards to see if we could pick up some activity in the water. Again, unfortunately we had no joy. Heading inland we flew over a few of the large number of freshwater lakes and sand blows that dot the landscape. Up north, prescribed burns were taking place and the smoke could be seen floating above the trees. The crown in the jewel was left until last though. As we once again turned towards the water, we flew over the beach and the wreck of the SS Maheno. The liner had beached on the island in 1935 having lost her tow in a cyclone and drifted off. Several attempts to refloat her failed and she was eventually stripped of her fittings and left. Apparently, she was used for bombing practice during the war. Les was on good form as he explained dryly that the lack of bomb damage indicated how much the pilots needed the practice! Time however, has not been kind to her, so much so, that people have now been stopped from climbing on her to avoid injury. She is still an amazing sight to see from the air.

Landing just up the beach from the wreck, we had another 15 mins or so to wander around the wreck with the rest of the group, who had arrived at the spot not long after we arrived. A couple of stops at the coloured sands of The Pinnacles and Eli Creek as we travelled back along the beach before it was time to hit the rollercoaster once more and back to the landing for the trip back across to the mainland. The sun set as the ferry made its way back to River Heads. It was a lovely vision that everyone enjoyed from the upper deck. Back on the city bus for the reverse trip back to the resort, I was exhausted by the time I got there. A quick bite before it was time to hit the sack.

Another early start tomorrow. Time to meet the whales!