Street boys

Began the day with a 7.00am breakfast then a 7.30 departure for Jaipur in Rajasthan. We were on an air-conditioned bus that reminded me a bit of a more upmarket version of our old school bus, Billy.

The countryside began to feel more rural - lots more space, fewer people, fewer vehicles, more cows, less dwellings, slightly less rubbish . . . . and the odd camel.

After about 2 hours we arrived at a settlement where we stretched our legs and took in a guided tour of the old Fatehpur Sikri fort - another impressive example of the Moghul empire. The things that was a bit different about this one though was that the street hawkers were allowed inside so we were constantly having things thrust infront of us.

"You buy madam. Just 200 rupees. Very good quality - see ...? 150 rupees? Very good price. Good quality. See?"

This lad is one of a group who hung around our party, even when we got back on the bus. They are such gorgeous kids and, even though we've been told to just ignore them, say nothing and keep moving, they can be so engaging and thus, so very difficult to ignore.

One lad, rather older than these youngsters, attached himself to me and did most of the tour with me trying to sell me some bangles. We chatted and I found out he was called Samal (?sp), was 17 years old, did school for 3 hours a day, had been doing the bangle-selling thing for years, wanted money so he could help his family and lived in the town in a little blue house, which he pointed out to me. He was very articulate, his English was excellent and he was the absolute model of a gentleman. I didn't want bangles but thought I could instead take a picture of him and pay him for that. I took the picture then he told me he wasn't allowed to take money for nothing. I explained that the money was for the photograph. He explained he had to exchange money for goods. The tour guide took me by the arm and quickly led me away down the steps and into the town. I felt a real sense of having let Samal down or worse, having offended him.

After the fort we were back on the bus to continue our lengthy road trip to Jaipur. More camels, more cows, more pigs, plenty of chaotic small settlements, plenty of men who don't seem to care where they pee (there seem to be very few women who sit by the roadsides . . .), fields of lentil plants, dozens of tall chimneys where red building bricks are made . . . . . and then some hills - a wecome break from the flat countryside we've seen so far.

We arrived in Jaipur around 4.00. Wow! Beautiful hotel - sparklingly clean, very plush and a real contrast to the surroundings and to our earlier accommodation. Time for a shower then out to the movies - a Bollywood movie with no subtitiles! The movie theatre - the Raj Mandir theatre - is renown in the area. It's a beautiful, ornate, single-screen theatre and we were treated to the best seats in the house - front row balcony. It was surprisingly easy to watch the movie although Sayani (our tour guide) didn't think it was a particulaltly good movie. I think I managed to follow most of it whcih surprised me. The best part of the experience though was the audience participation. Cheers and hoots when some of the Bollywood stars made their appearance - or when a scantily-clad young woman made her appearance!

Bed time now - there's some shopping to be done tomorrow after more sightseeing :) I can hardly believe we've only been here half a week - we seem to have packed sooooo much in already!