Life wide open

Life is a public affair in Cuba -- whether on streets teeming with people or through intimate peeks of wide open doors and windows.

During the mid-day hot hours, Cubanos hang around in the relative shelter of doorways, balconies and windows, chatting amicably with one another or watching others going about their business, while smoking cigars and sipping on a lethal Cuban coffee. Homes seem to have an open door (and window) policy so you can have a glimpse at life indoors.

Little home businesses are at full swing: a barber chair tucked under a staircase; a manicure in someone’s living room, bicycle repairs in small courtyards. Palados (small home-based restaurants) offer their goods through windows. Artists roam the streets: they play music, dance, serenade you, dress up for photo opportunities: “one peso, por favor, seniorita!”

The government has published a list of some 120 jobs, which can now be performed by enterprising people in a private sector mode. It’s a small slice of the economy and it’s fraught with problems as the rest of the system does not yet support entrepreneurship, but I guess it’s a beginning.

In the afternoon and evening, throngs of people start filling the streets: lovers in embrace on benches, groups of youngsters rollerblading, families strolling along and taking in the sights, music streaming from clubs, guitars being strummed from parks, and the ever present honking of cars and bicycle taxis.

Today we visited one of Cuba’s 17 medical schools, which together, churn out about 20,000 physicians per year – at no cost to the students. As I mentioned yesterday, doctors are one of Cuba’s main “exports”, operating all over the developing world. Castro had even offered 200 doctors to the US, the day after Hurricane Katrina (the offer was kindly declined…)

The universities are open to non-Cubans as well and attract people from developing countries. There were also about 100 US students (all from disadvantaged neighborhoods) enrolled at the place we visited. The program spans 7 years for non-Spanish speakers (the first year being spent learning Spanish and bringing everyone to the same level). I liked their health infrastructure, which provides each neighborhood with a doctor in residence. And of course, all services are free.

We had a working lunch with the Norwegian ambassador, which provided lots of insights into the workings (or not) of the diplomatic corps. The evening started with a private performance of one of Cuba’s most famous “troba” (singers who take from the troubadour tradition). And finally a fabulous dinner at a farm-to-table restaurant in the country side. I’m ready to hit the sack! ☺

Thanks for your comments again! Responses will have to wait for my return to the US tomorrow, as I have about 5mns worth of wifi left…