Over or under, then through

Went to Waikiki after doing my errands and was rewarded with an onshore breeze and white topped waves dappled across the whole horizon. The tourists and I were VERY happy. Got some smashing ! shots of waves hitting the cement wall and spray. But only watching did it justice - how do you capture waves that slam into and over the wall at different ends, and sometimes middle too, that appear to track along the wall? Laughable, it was glorious! Different every time.
But liked this one best, body surfer submerged in a (small) wave while paddling out.