Santa Maria In Trastevere
Before we left for Rome i did some research and made a list of places or things i thought we should see while in Rome.
In the heart of Old Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is named after the church in it's Northwest corner. Held to be the first Christian place of worship in Rome, it was built on a site where a fountain of oil is said to have sprung on the day of Christ's birth. The church's mosaics are among the city's most impressive, mostly Byzantine inspired works depicting a solemn yet sensitive parade of saints thronged around Christ and Mary - the Coronation of the Virgin - beneath which are scenes from her life by the Santa Cecilia artist, Pietro Cavallini.
Under the high altar, an inscription - "FONS OLEI" - marks the spot where the oil is supposed to have sprung up.
I have to admit, that i generally only go to church for Christenings, Weddings etc etc, and even those occasion are very few and far between. So when we arrived at Santa Maria in Trastevere this morning i was stunned, the Sunday morning service was taking place, Bev and i shuffled into the church and found a place to stand right at the back of the church. There wasn't a spare seat to be had amongst the pews, the congregation were in full voice for the hymns, and the choir were just, heavenly, take that congregation and choir and put them in a stunningly beautiful church, i just filled up and became tearful........
There are two pieces of music which are guaranteed to make me fill up and cry, the first being, The Lark Ascending, composed by Vaugh Williams, a simply staggering piece of work for the solo violin, and bizarrely, Nine Million Bicycles, sung by Katie Melua.........and now the congregartion of this beautiful church.
Just a few lines on the Trastevere area which lies across the river from the centre of town. Trastevere (the name means literally "across the Tiber) was the artisan area of the city in classical times, neatly placed for the trade that came up river from Ostia. Nowadays the area is a long way from its working class roots, and its many bars and restaurants can be thronged with tourists. But its narrow streets and closeted squares are charming , peaceful in the morning, lively come the evening, with dozens of trattorias setting tables out along the cobbled streets.
If you do visit Rome, a visit to this area and particularly the church are a must.
Larger image....
j.
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