A Brilliant Chef

We ate tonight at the Merchant's Tavern restaurant in Shoreditch, London. The restaurant is the project and triumph of a young Scottish chef I met while researching a book in France a few years ago. He was then No.2 to France's top chef, Michel Bras.

Born and raised on Scotland's east coast, Neil Borthwick got the cooking bug when he took a Saturday job washing dishes in the kitchen of a local hotel.

His rise to stardom in the exceptionally demanding world of French haute cuisine, was a phenomenon, and it was only a matter of time before he would return to the UK to open up his own place - which he did in an old warehouse in London's east-end with the help of his amour, celebrity chef Angela Hartnett.

Then disaster struck. A cycling accident that left him in a coma. You can read about it here. He is back working now, dealing with all the stresses of running such a high-powered restaurant, but he still has some way to go on the road to recovery.

A nicer man you could not meet, and his strength and mental courage in dealing with the aftermath of his accident is extraordinary, as he expresses his determination not to let that chance moment define his life.

Our wonderful meal is testament to his talent. He joined us for some time at our table, and I found my affection and admiration for him grow. It can only be a matter of time before Michelin comes calling with a star or two.

Glass raised to you, Neil. May you make a full recovery.