Rome

Tivoli is around a 50 minute train ride from Rome, so we decided to get to the train station “reasonably” early to beat the crowds … we didn’t quite make the 7.30 rain, but we arrived down around 8 to catch the 8.20. Only problem was, the timetable we’d been given by the “helpful” info center lady, wasn’t quite right, and then next train was 8.50, oh well. And to make matters worse, ticket office closed and the ticket machine was broken. I can see trend developing in Italy, all a bit chaotic!

Anyway, on the train, of at the main station, then on the metro to the Vatican! As luck would have it, being a Sunday the op was speaking and St Peters square was busy! But what an opportunity, so we had a look around the area, listened to our excellent podcasts, and waited, along with thousands of others I have seen reports that up to 100 000 people attend on Sundays, as Pope Francis is quiet popular, but it’s hard to say, I would have said 30 000 or so … Anyway, busy, but not overwhelmingly so. Sadly we didn’t’ get to see inside St Peters, as we overlooked the dress code. No shorts, bare shoulders etc. Next time …

Blessing over, we headed down Via della Conciliazione (controversially created by Mussolini, as he demolished parts of Rome to make it grander ...) and a stop for lunch at the closest restaurant. Lovely cooling fans.

Refueled it was off to the Pantheon, which surprisingly is free to visit, yet still wasn’t too crowded, no line … Have to say, the Pantheon was amazing! What an unbelievably striking piece of architecture and so innovative for the time, present construction starting in 114 AD. Especially the roof … made of concrete in a coffered style to save weight (basically indented) it’s 5 m thick at the bottom and I think just around 2m at the top But amazingly, it’s an open roof, with the oculus exposing the inside to the weather – rain and shine. And today, the sun was shining through with amazing rays. Incredibly spectacular.

Off by foot to the Coliseum, and everywhere you look at spectacular, buildings fountains, statues. Rome is way more than what I expected, it’s stunning. And surprisingly, not as busy as I expected. Our strategy of train to the furthest point, then walking back was good Each stop is 20 – 30 minutes, although frankly everywhere is worth stopping at (!) and even though it’s hot, the narrow streets provide enough shade. Interspersed with gelato stops …

Lovely walk and then down the side of the Roman Forum, the Via di San Gregario, a huge boulevard was closed to traffic, so it was fantastic strolling down. We learned later that the Rolling Stones were paying later tonight, thus the closure. Thanks Mick!

We’d download some great audio guides and they were fantastic for guiding us around the Coliseum and explain some if the architecture and history. I’ve never been a fan of podcasts or audio guides, too old school, but I have to say, for travelers they are gold. Totally going to recommend for clients now.

Anyway, the Coliseum, sadly much of the exterior is clad in scolding, obscuring the classic view. Reports of long lines I guess we were lucky with timing, but it was about 10 minutes to get in. 12 euro each, but free for the kids; Lots of people were offering tours, at around 13 euro per person, partly as a way to beat the lines, but with our audio guides, I think we got the best anyway …

Ending up spending a good couple of hours looking around and learning about the history. Quite interesting, especially to hear of the influence of Christianity and how it impacted n gladiatorial fights and the animal hunts, which resulted in their killing. Basically stopped both, and gradually the usage declined. Prior to 300AD you could be killed for being a Christian, then after Constantine’s victory, and his adoption of Christianity as the state faith, you could be killed for not being a Christian! Commemorated by the Arch of Constantine.

Coliseum done, it was back on the metro, a tight connection at Roma Tiburtina, and home.

Phew!