Stone Barn Country

After a lively evening in the Buck Inn in Reeth (where there was a lot of raucousness around a dominoes match) we took a leisurely start in the morning. I'd normally be eager to get into the hills and explore but the effects of the bug I've acquired meant that I was happy to bimble about with M while TJ and Lulubelle were shopping (for walking boots I should, not anything frivolous - but you would have known that anyway!).

I spotted Gordon from across the village green and he was immediately irresistible as a subject for a portrait. He was a little reticent when I first engaged with him but he soon opened up once he realised that my interest was genuine. Gordon is the archetypal dour Yorkshire farmer, his humour as dry as his fields are wet up here in winter. I naturally asked him about the Grand Depart and he told me the race went literally right past his front door. He wasn't particularly enthusiastic - although I got the impression he enjoyed the whole experience far more than he was prepared to let on.

Gordon is really a dominoes man. That seems to be his passion. He told me that hadn't ridden a bike since he was a teenager. As soon as he got his driving license the bike was chucked and he's never sat on a saddle since. I suggested that he must however have kept pretty fit in his days as a farmer, chasing sheep around his fields. "Nah, m'dogs did all the running around. I just stood at the bottom and whistled."

I asked him what then was the biggest thing to happen in Swaledale in his memory. He suggested it was the visit of Prince Charles, who seems to have an affection for the north-eastern Dales. He went in to one of the local pubs, saw a game of dominoes being played, and asked if he could join. Apparently, though hard to believe being the competitive folk that they are up here, they let him win! Gordon then told me that there was a photograph of him with Prince Charles actually hanging in the White House - although he couldn't explain the story behind that. In trying to check the veracity of this remarkable claim (successfully as far as the first part is concerned - see here), I also found this recently syndicated shot of Gordon outside his cottage in Muker (scroll down a bit). This picture will have been seen all around the world. It turns out that this wonderful old fellow is something of a global celebrity! I wonder if he even knows it?

When we finally managed to tear ourselves away from Reeth we drove up Arkengarthdale to the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England. Needless to say, TJ had been here once before from the high altitude pub crawling days of her youth, rekindling some old memories. The four of us then took turns sharing the two bikes we had with us, driving and cycling back down to Muker. It was the first time TJ and I had cycled together. There were, of course, lots of stops for photography, including the one for this blip. Out of many, many shots of the stone barns we saw today I've kept coming back to this one. And the colour shot works better than my mono version.

We finished the day with a walk I've long wanted to do, a circular from Muker taking a low level route up the valley to Keld and then returning at a higher level. It was absolutely beautiful and full of delight contrasts. TJ was in Stone Barn Heaven! The weather was hot and muggy so when we started to explore some of the waterfalls and found a little swimming hole there wasn't too much hesitation before clothes were shucked and we were in the water. Bracing at first but incredibly refreshing!

The day was completed with an evening in Muker's only pub, which felt like a real local, with good food and even live music. The impromptu gig was very good, but at that rather late point in the night, the whole day was catching up with me and I found it hard to keep my eyes open. I guess it had been pretty action packed albeit in a very relaxed way!