Waterland

I'm typing this sitting in a tent, which is quite something. I gave up trying to actually post it though, because the connection is even worse than it was yesterday. Hence I'm backblipping from the bar.

Quick summary of the day: we got up reasonably early, packed the car, and did a detour via Georgina's house to view her extension. Iaulin Borda is one of my favourite places in the world. When we lived here for three months in 2010, every day we got up to this view. More often than not, I would hurry out to the terrace before I was even dressed to take a photo. It was strange being here again; Georgina was out with her walking group, but we wandered around and admired the views once more, and reminisced about our time here. I still feel I left a part of my heart here, and I would come back like a shot. But not in winter :)

Then we set off to Ochagavia. It's only a couple of hours' drive but it took a large part of the day as we kept stopping. I know there are parts of Spain that I haven't seen yet, but I can't believe that any of them are more beautiful than the Basque Country. It's not just the glorious green landscape and magnificent vistas; it's the calm solidity of Basque architecture, fitting so perfectly into its environment and reflecting the Basque character. The massive white houses look as if they've been here forever, even if they were built "only" a century or so ago. As I mentioned in passing yesterday, it's the houses that have rights and privileges here; the residents are merely custodians.

We had lunch in Roncesvalles, which was heaving with pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. We eventually arrived in Ochagavia at about 4:30 and a quick glance at the small campsite was enough to convince us. It only took us an hour and a half to put the tent up and get everything installed; we shouldn't have decided to "improve" the process. Then we went for a look round the very picturesque village, which runs along both sides of the Salazar river, with no fewer than four bridges. This blip is of the public fountain, with separate taps for drinkable and non-drinkable water.

We returned to the campsite for aperitifs, and within minutes I had serious camper van envy as three combis arrived and their occupants were comfortably installed in five minutes. S lit the barbecue and we dined royally on a single tomato from our garden sprinkled with salt, salt pork and sausages bought in Elizondo, cheese from Roncesvalles, a glass or two of wine, and coffee. There is something so liberating about camping, a minimalist existence freed from all responsibilities. Now getting ready to spend our first night in a tent for something like ten years.