"Bienvenue!" "Merci!"

“The important thing in life is not to have a good hand, but to play it well." ~Louis Fortin, writer

We’re in Taiwan this week because Chris is working on a tough new project that’s putting him and his team through their paces. As so often happens with new projects, his days have been unusually long and his nights are restless. Dinner-time conversations are filled with talk of work instead of family and football, cell phones sit conspicuously and persistently out in the open, and vacation plans are back-burnered until things settle down, whenever that may be.

We’re so grateful for all the wonderful experiences we’re having and always strive to drink up the best of our adventures while we can. Yet, during times like these even the most seasoned and committed traveler longs to be sitting in familiar surroundings, eating comforting and familiar foods, listening to recognizable music or watching TV without subtitles, perhaps enjoying a cold can of Bud or sipping a good California red - and in doing so, defying the 9,000 mile commute between work and home!

So when the grass on the other side of the proverbial fence beckons, Chris and I stand by Louis Fortin’s quote and strive to play well the hand we’ve been dealt – which many times results in our finding magical places just like this little French bistro here in the heart of Taichung! And Voila! Suddenly it becomes much easier to look at the glass half-full, especially when the glass is half full of a good French cabernet!

This cozy bistro with its warm Provencal interior, simple wooden tables, wicker chairs and cheerful French flags flying over the tiny outside deck right on the sidewalk is typical of this part of town. Listening to the music coming from the small speakers and glancing over the entirely authentic French menu, you could almost imagine you were sitting in a narrow Parisian alleyway with the scooters whizzing by and young families coming home for dinner. It’s no wonder the area has been dubbed “Little Europe!”

This afternoon I met the owner/chef (Gulu, I presume) as he sat outside with one of his compatriots, having a smoke before the bistro opened and catching up in their native French. He confirmed he did, indeed, have Chicken Cordon Bleu on the menu tonight (Chris’ favorite and always a “go to” after a long, tough day) and that we most certainly could enjoy our meal al fresco (or, as the French say, “en plein air!”)

As with any international city, the flavor of local neighborhoods rests not only with the residents, but with the local businesses. Certainly GULU’s House is central to the flavor of Little Europe, and for two weary transplanted Americans, tonight’s tiny Provencal bistro was a welcome and familiar port in the storm. The food was exceptional and comforting, the wine was deliciously French, the service was typically slow and relaxed, and despite the ever-present cell phones, the atmosphere swept us far from the streets of Taiwan and away from the stress and drudgery of work. If only for a couple of hours, it was exactly what was needed at the end of this day!

Many waiters and waitresses who work in Little Europe’s bistros and cafes do so because they want to mingle with foreigners and practice their English. Respecting their self-imposed regimen and forever grateful for their efforts, we’re always very patient, speak slowly and repeat often - painfully aware that if we had to rely upon our Mandarin to get anything across, we wouldn’t be eating at all!

Tonight the girls smiled and took our orders in slow and steady English, pointing to the menus and visually confirming their understanding. I was about to commend them on their English when I remembered how they had greeted us on the way in: with a cheerful and perfectly pronounced “Bienvenue!!” So in keeping with our international language tutorial, I simply replied with “Merci!”