Knitting the nets

After almost a week at one of the most relaxed places I have ever been, it was time to move again, for one thing to have proper internet access again. Though it can be very refreshing to effectively be cut off from the rest of the world, it is not very convenient if you try to finish a thesis before your deadline, for which you need contact with the outside world. Thus, yesterday we (that's me, Tamasin and Debbie, both English journalists) decided to move back towards Cape Coast / Elmina, the hotspots of the European slave trade back in the days.

Today I visited Elmina, sort of the 'Dutch capital' from the 16th to the 19th century, which is not something to be proud of really. Elmina (St John) Castle is quite impressive in that respect, although you have to envision the history behind it, because now it is mostly a big white building, of which the white plaster will make your clothes white too if you lean against it.

Ghanaians don't hold a grudge against visitors (like me) from countries which deported many of their countrymen and -women luckily, probably because that visitor is also a walking ATM machine, and a possible subject of the local bracelets, self-designed tours or I-want-to-be-your-friend-so-give-me-money trade, or the kids yelling 'give me money' before asking 'hey how are you'. Mind you, I still regard Ghana as one of the friendliest countries I've ever been to, with most people genuinely calling 'You're welcome' or similar phrases everytime you pass by (the smiles and waving of village children might be the most adorable thing you'll ever experience!). Annoying hassling concentrates only around known tourist hubs, and even in Elmina (one of those tourist hubs, even though I hardly saw any today) was minimal and can easily be avoided by a big smile.

However, how interesting the castle may be, I must honestly say that the real attraction of Elmina for me was the colourful fishing harbour next to the castle. I must have just sat there for hours watching the fishermen enter the Atlantic to catch today's meal, or return again to show the catch to Elmina's women, waiting at the shore to buy the fish. Today's choice was a difficult one, but I knew it had to be one of the fishing activities.