A Bridge of tears

One of the most striking emblems of Melbourne is the Westgate Bridge that spans the Yarra River, linking the Melbourne CBD and its southern and eastern suburbs to its industrial western suburbs then onwards to Geelong (the second largest City in Victoria) some 80 kilometres (50 miles) away to the south-west.

Opened in November 1978 at an overall cost of $202 million Australian Dollars (probably around $1.8 Billion Dollars today). The Bridge runs for a total length of 2,582 metres (8,473 feet) - longer than height of Australia's premier mountain, Mount Kosciuszko which stands at 2,228 metres (7,310 feet) and longer than Australia's most famous bridge, the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge which is roughly half the Westgate's length. It is Australia's 3rd longest bridge overall.

Built of a cable-stayed box girder design, the Westgate has 11 spans of which the longest, across the Yarra River, stretches for 336 metres (1,102 feet). The maximum height of the Bridge at the River crossing is 58 metres (190 feet). Approximately 168,000 vehicles use the Westgate daily (well in excess of 40,000 vehicles assumed in the original design) on its 8 (4 inbound and 4 outbound) roadway lanes. There is no pedestrian or cycling access except on special occasions where traffic is truncated for the event. The view from the Bridge of Melbourne, its suburbs and the Port Phillip Bay is spectacular.

As impressive as these statistics be, it is 'a Bridge of tears' for me. This is due to a disastrous collapse that occurred during construction at 11:50am on 15th October 1970. A 112 metre (367 foot) span weighing 2,000 tonnes (2,205 tons) being erected on the western side of the Yarra River fell 50 metres (164 feet) killing 35 construction workers (and injuring many more) who had been working on the Bridge itself and at the worksite directly beneath. Hundreds of premises within a kilometre shook with the impact, with many being splattered by debris and mud. It is reputed that the roar of the crash and subsequent explosion could be heard up to 20 kilometres/12 miles away.

Immediately following the collapse, the Victoria State Government set up a Royal Commission (a judicial inquiry with extensive legal and investigative powers) to ascertain the reasons for the disaster. The Commission sat for well over 10 months and heard extensive eyewitness accounts along with complex engineering and design arguments. In its 8,000 word report, the Commission attributed the collapse to two main causes, namely: the structural design and the unusual method of construction.

It was determined by the Commission that on the day of the tragedy there was a difference in camber of 11.4 centimetres (4.5 inches) between two half girders on the span in question, which was being connected to the Bridge. To alleviate this camber, Engineers proposed to lower the higher girder by the application of 10 concrete blocks (which happened to be on site) each weighing 8 tonnes (11 tons). The weight of these blocks made the span buckle longitudinally giving a warning indication of structural failure. The joining of the girders was nearly completed when instructions were issued to alleviate the buckle by the removal of some bolts. As these bolts were removed, stresses greatly increased, causing the Bridge to literally snap back and collapsing the span. A reading of the Commission's report, even for a non-Engineer, makes sobering and terrifying reading. Where one decision leads to another leading to another and so on with the end result the death of so many.

There is a Memorial, on the site where the span thuddered directly below the Bridge. It is just off the main cycling/walking track that runs under the Bridge linking the suburbs of Footscray to Williamstown. This Memorial is very unobtrusive, yet brutal in its stark brevity, especially when you read the names, ages and professions of those who perished. It was an indiscriminate killing on this basis. Each time I pass this location I am moved to tears, even though the tragedy occurred nearly 40 years ago. This is induced by the location of the collapse site and the vibrant, working Bridge above.

Sadly, the Westgate has acquired another dubious and equally tragic reputation: that being of a 'Suicide Bridge'. Until recent times, it is reputed that one suicide occurred roughly every 3 weeks. I learned too that of the suicide attempts at least 7 people have amazingly and fortunately survived, though in comparison to those who have died it is a distressingly low number. A number of especially haunting suicides occurred in 2008, some involving children that prompted the installation of suicide barriers (still on-going in their erection) in the hope this will reduce the number of deaths.

Yet the Bridge is not all gloom, dispite its a welt of tears. When it first opened those using it had to pay a toll and booths were erected on the eastern side, citing wry remarks that the revenue collected by the tolls went to the east of Melbourne. This in turn led to the cry of 'the deprived west'. I recall the first time I paid a toll. I was driving a much loved (and battered) Datsun 200B sedan and it cost 20 cents. You would drive up to the Toll Booth and if you had the 20 cent coin you simply flung it into a large bucket, which metaphorically, 'swallowed' the coin and the barrier would rise to let you pass. The Toll Booth operators, in their spiffy uniforms, were invariably always pleasant and would offer a friendly hello, even if you had a large note (like a $50) to pay for the 20 cent toll! In 1985 as a result of re-election campaign gimmick, tolls were abolished, even though the loans obtained by the Government to pay for the Bridge had yet to be paid off! So, I suppose we all ended paying for the Bridge whether we used it or not.

Beneath the Westgate, on both sides of the River, are a number of parks, picnic areas, walking and cycling pathways offering an array of leisure activity supported by wealth of history of not only the Bridge but its surrounds and the Yarra River itself. On weekends, school holidays and public holidays, a small Punt (at modest charge) takes walkers and cyclists across the Yarra River passing directly under the main span of the Bridge. Taking this Punt you get one of the best views of the Bridge and some superb photos in the process. I always take visitors to Melbourne on this simple yet enjoyable 'punt ride'.

Not far from the Bridge, on the western side - the side I visit the most - there are a number of small Jettys where tourist Ferries and private leisure craft drop off and pick up passengers. One of these Jettys is called Spotswood Jetty from where the photograph was taken. People alighting here do so to visit the Melbourne Science works & Planetarium (well worth a visit) located nearby at the site of the old Spotswood Pumping Station. This grand looking Victorian era Pumping Station used to pump Melbourne's sewage out to settling farms at a place called Werribee. It was then, after treatment, used as a fertiliser on the numerous Market Gardens in the district. In and around the Bridge are some excellent fishing spots too. Most weekends and especially so in the summer months, you'll find a whole gaggle of fisherpersons casting a hopeful line. The Newport (gas fired) PowerStation is about a kilometre from the Bridge (distinguished by its huge exhaust Tower) and here, on the banks of the Yarra River near where it enters Port Phillip Bay, you find the fanatical fisher-thugs (as I respectfully call them) jealously guarding their possies near where the heated (and clean) water used in the PowerStation is discharged into the River. This spot is affectionately known as 'the warmies'. On cold mornings it gives off its own mini-fog bank, quite an unusual sight.

However, my feelings, despite the calmer surronds on, under and about the Westgate Bridge, are mixed and tempered. It certainly is an impressive structure; this is attested by its sheer size. Yet, the Bridge is not pretty or of a particularly inspiring shape. It is what I call an Engineer's Bridge, (not to denigrate any Engineers) as it seems built not for beauty but pure functionality. It will always have the sombre greying of death's auction about its bolts of steel and weight of concrete. Sadly, it will claim more to its killing ledger whilst at the same time offering a community service. If in Melbourne, it is worth a drive across (no toll either) for the fine views and to spend some time walking or cycling underneath its piers.