The Lynmouth Stumble

It's difficult to get to the waves in Lymouth with any surfer'y composure or dignity. Lots of slippery boulders, some that tip over when you stand on them and all covered by opaque, frothing saltwater. You take your best guess as to where your foot needs to go and hope you don't just topple over.

Big surf today, but a short one for me - for the third time in six months I parted company with leash and board. So another scary swim to the shore, but miraculously the board got away with only a slight scuff to the nose after 10 minutes drifting around in the rocks. Time to buy a new leash, I don't trust the present one anymore.