Early morning, Camel Estuary

Rock, always attractive to holiday-makers, has changed greatly since I was last there in the mid '60s, having become popular with bankers, their bonuses and their gilded off-spring. This has resulted in massive glass-and-steel balconied 'cottages'; high-speed, over-powered ribs and speed-boats (not always owned by people who have an interest in the sea) ; branches of Jack Wills and White Stuff; bistro cafes/wine bars (fish and chips £18); and a constant stream of truly enormous 4x4s.

BUT

the essence of the small village we knew before is still there, and before the summer crowds arrive, and especially in the early morning, it is still possible to see why people come.