Side Streets

There's something magical about Old Montreal - a piece of Europe in North America. No matter how united the opposition, the Quebecois language and heritage police always manage to fight off the incursion of North American (read US) values. Result: An oasis of civilisation in the belly of the best.

But commercialism, however muted, still takes over in the streets of this tourist attraction, so the sensible people head for the side streets where there's relief from the madding crowds and the purveyors of tat - and, unlike in most cities on the continent, you're not likely to get your head bashed in. Unless you choose a time when the cops are whacking the heads of rioting students . . .