Orkney day 5: South Ronaldsay
Cold and breezy, we headed down towards South Ronaldsay via the Churchill Barriers - causeways erected between several islands during WW2 to hinder German U-boats. First stop the Italian Chapel - an extraordinary and moving little building, converted from a nissen hut by Italian POWs incarcerated on Orkney. It is ornate, beautiful and extremely well painted. Very moving but I couldn't but help but compare this to the simply unimaginable conditions in other camps.
On down to the Tomb of the Eagles. I can safely say that no chambered tomb on Orkney was left unexplored. They look like green pimples on the landscape and are usually freely accessible. Most of them have very teeny entrances that you either have to climb down via a ladder, slither along on hands and knees or, as in this case, propel yourself along via a tea tray! This tomb was especially interesting as it had been excavated by the family who had found it, they having become exasperated by Scottish Heritage's lack of enthusiasm. Before you went to the tomb you were given a talk about the work and the finds and were allowed to hold some artefacts - TJ confessed to having a little tingle at this point. The tomb itself was found to contain the remains of 300 individuals plus the remains of many sea eagles. It's thought that the dead were given sky burials and the eagles were encouraged to de-flesh the remains. Other tombs contain the remains of dogs - maybe used for the same purpose?
Miraculously nearby was a very pleasant cafe with huge views seawards. They had found a tomb close by and it was now situated rather forlornly in the carpark - the tomb of the otters, sadly closed on this occasion.
The day was completed by a wonderful visit to Happy Valley and Porridge's secret woodland. A real treat full of bluebells and wild purslane.
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