Sunset on Boston

So another emotional rollercoaster of a day and things are looking difficult for Dylan; we're not sure if he'll pull through. Fractured pelvis and other complications. If he does make it home he will need six weeks cage rest. Obviously this was on our mind all day and we had numerous conversations with the boys back home and the vets.

We tried to make the best of it even though we were worried and started our day with  a takeaway from Starbucks which we took to Boston Park . This is a lovely public gardens just South of Boston Common; the sun was shining and there were quite a few yummy mummies and stylish nannies in evidence. The lake is famous for its swan boats which are basically rafts with park benches on and a large fibre glass swan cocoon at one end.  When moored up together they form ranks of the surreal, like a swan orchestra facing an audience with its back turned. 

Charles Street runs North to South and beyond the park goes from being a busy thoroughfare to a lovely street of cafes, boutique shops, and small businesses. This is where found Tatte, an amazing place where we bought sandwiches and pastries to eat later.  The star of the show was roasted cauliflower  with tahini, pine nuts, and capers in a beautiful soft flatbread. I have to say this was one of the best sandwiches I have eaten anywhere, ever. 

By lunchtime we had walked up as as we could get towards Charlestown and found ourselves defeated by a tangle of freeways and building sites. Boston is still working on a continuously navigable riverside experience. So we stopped in the Boston Museum of Science (which looked amazing) bought water and took a taxi to the USS constitution. We didn’t go in but took a couple of photos from outside; it is a grand looking boat that reminded me of The Cutty Sark back home. Something about ships in dry dock revealing their graceful lines. 

From here it is a short walk up to Bunker Hill. The streets are like those in the Beacon Hill area, old houses, lots of brick and timber, obviously well heeled and well kept. At the top of the hill is the monument, which we went up; it has 294 steep steps and left us both a bit wobbly afterwards. The views from the top aren’t actually that impressive, partly because Boston isn’t that remarkable from on high (its glory is in its detail) but also because the room at the top has small and grimy windows which people queue to look out of.

We recovered over a cold drink and then took a bus back down to Faneuil Hall; by now it was late afternoon and we were hoping to take a boat tour of the harbour, but the ticket seller said we had just missed the last one. Then we found another place that allegedly  did a sunset tour but were told by one of the staff (seriously) “there is no sunset tonight”.  We wandered on disappointed to Rowes Wharf and found another place who were doing a boat at six o’clock; so we bought tickets and went into a hotel bar for a very expensive beer and a vodka.

The boat trip on the Northern Lights was one of the most amazing holiday experiences I have ever had. Firstly there were very few of us on it and it was quite a big boat; and believe it or not we bagged a three cornered settee with plush cushions in the middle of the canopied top deck where we had drinks and they played music. We snogged and danced as the sun went down, took some great pictures and chatted to a variety of fellow passengers and crew. The next hour and a half seemed to last a lot longer than it actually was and I had that glow that comes with knowing that this was a memory to treasure.

We ate at Anthem when we got back and although she did not wait our table the very lovely Josie remembered us and came over and said hi, which is amazing given the turnover in the place. We ate light, having stuffed ourselves on nuts and pretzels in the hotel bar earlier, then walked back to our hotel. We stayed at The Revere which I would not recommend unless you were faced with homelessness; they seem to have a fixation that all their guests are criminals to be interrogated and abused rather than customers you want to take care of. 

This is unfortunate because Boston itself has been brilliant; given the worries back home we have still had a great time. The thing that makes it for me as that we have met so many friendly helpful people; the city is compact and lovely for walking; the history is fascinating and well presented; and it feels clean and safe with so many hidden gems. So "I heart Boston" as the t shirt cliche goes, and bad hotels aside we've had as fab a time as we could have done. 

Early train to New York tomorrow.