Tyneham

A fantastic walk this morning. 

The vast area around Tyneham is only accessible at weekends. During the week it is part of the huge Lulworth Firing Ranges. It was commandeered by Churchill's war cabinet in 1943 in preparation for the Normandy invasion, and the 250 or so villagers thought they would be coming back after the war. That never happened. 

The whole history is fascinating. The village is now derelict, although as part of a deal in the 1970's access was allowed to the area140 days a year. Otherwise it is for the tanks. It means that the countryside is much less affected by change than other areas, and it is fantastic for wildlife. The church has been restored, and both it and the empty farm buildings have fascinating displays of the history of the place. An extra shows a derelict barn (thus the derelict tag), where part of the old Tyneham theatre is restored (for display purposes only). What an odd place for a theatre.

This afternoon we travelled to Moreton for lunch and to look at the engraved windows - a 30 year labour of love by Laurence Whistler, this is the only church in the world where all the windows are engraved. 14 of them. Astonishing (an example is in the extras).

And then latterly - in the pouring rain - we visited Clouds Hill, the home of TE Lawrence ("of Arabia") from 1923 until his death in a motorcycle accident in 1935. It's a simple two up two down house, sitting on its own in a wood, no electricity so we were handed torches to look around. Probably one of the best National Trust properties I have ever visited. The extra shows one side of the house, the ancient greek inscription over the door translates as "Never Worry". An extraordinary man, an extraordinary life.

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