Motorbike ambulance

I will always be humbled by South Sudan and that is one of the reasons why it's a useful place to spend time.

Today a talented young member of the Wildlife Service called Batista visited the compound, although he's normally based a distance away at Bangangai Game Reserve, a site we were formerly more present at, before the most recent bout of conflict. Batista was in town as his mother is at death's door and they'd been seeking treatment. He was trying to organise transport back home so his mother could die there.

He discussed the logistical and financial challenges of this, such as only being able to afford a motorbike ride, with his unconscious mother, fully expected to die en route, propped up between the driver and him, with a matter-of-factness that was so very humbling. When they are destitute even in the act of death people are not assured of dignity. There are not the time or resources to prepare grief or mourn in any semblance of comfort. This ties in with a conversation bananablip and I had with sakalasafari about grief in Zambia which is expressed openly and strongly for a short period. Then people must compartmentalise their outward emotions and get on with the daily grind.

Yambio remains calm politically but there was an incident near the market when some gunshots were fired into the air by the police, variously interpreted as (1) attempts to apprehend a thief and (2) the stopping of a revenge killing by the family of a musician who was murdered the day before. Others at dinner had heard different explanations. The real reason will never be clear.

I preferred to ask the waiter about the onset of the rainy season, and his answer would make any geography teacher beam with pride: 'Nimbus are there but they do not bring rain'.