Diary of an Edinburgher

By LadyMarchmont

Aigues-Mortes!

We had a grand day out - bus to Nîmes, train to Aigues-Mortes, and yes, it was €1 (each way) for an hour's journey! And I think we were in first class - or maybe that's just how the trains are here.

As we approached, there were posters up about a 'Manifestation Taurine'... my French isn’t very good, but I knew it meant BULLS. (It also had a clue: a picture of a big black bull).

As we got nearer, there were more warnings about 'les taureux dans les rues...' But it couldn’t be today... could it?

We forgot about this, and had a good coffee and croissant at a friendly cafe before wandering through the charming wee streets to the central square and the Tourist Info. The ancient crumbling church has had new windows à la David Hockney.

After initial pleasantries, and having the map interpreted, I happened to ask when the bulls were running.
'Today.'
'Where?'
'Just the next street.'
'When?'
'Now...'


We rushed off and found the street with barriers up to protect observers. Almost as soon as we arrived, horses began to charge by. Then men on bicycles whizzed by. Fast. Then I could see the bulls come charging up the road! I rushed to get behind the barrier, and in my excitement, my camera settings somehow got changed to 'slo mo'. Grrrrr.

But they were by in a flash. About four bulls, well constrained between galloping horses. It still was pretty exciting. Not like Pamplona - no idiots running with them. Their next run was to be at 5.30pm, so we were lucky we just 'happened' to see them!

We found a nice cafe and I told the woman,
'We've just seen the bulls running!' and she said,
'Now you can eat one!'
She served humungous beef burgers! But we just had chips and local craft beer.

The whole town was hotting up for a party - lots of people were dressed in silly costumes, there was a great band who moved around, and two outside bars with DJs were blasting out very loud music, right beside each other!

We did attempt to walk round the city walls, but they were closed for two hours for lunch (which I wasn’t unduly upset about...) so we wandered back to the station, where we sat and waited. Eventually, a chap from the office shouted over and asked if we were going to Nîmes.
'Oui!'
'L'autobus!' he shouted, with an exaggerated driving motion. We rushed back, and got there in time for the bus arriving. Phew!

Home in time for crostinis, tapenade and wine on our wee balcony. That's how we like to sample the local produce! Then a yummy omelet with veges and herbes and a green salad - better than eating out.

The BIG Market Day tomorrow!

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