Standing her ground . . .

. . .  or sanding her ground (works well, too)

Extras:
1.  Momentum!   (and astoundingly, he reconnected with his board, only to fall over backwards, due to its forward motion)
2.   Nice vertical sheet of backwash

News catch-up:

POW WOW Hawaii2019 is being painted this week down in Kaka'ako.  Hope to go down and check it out.

The Falls of Clyde ship deal fell through again to take her back to her birthplace in Scotland.  The (#!*!#%) state has now put her up for auction.  She's taking on water at her berth, but has been temporarily patched and bailed.   The state says it won't subsidize her any longer.  Here's a link to the latest.