Dali

Again I woke at 4 and had no more sleep. Breakfast was a very stodgy pancake with walnuts in it and honey, and yogurt and apple and banana, washed down with thick coffee.

We left Tina’s Guest House at 8.30 for 20 min drive up the valley on the eroded road, with much evidence of recent rockfalls and big drop to the Yellow Sand River. We arrived at the huge car and bus park already disgorging tourists down many steps to see the big rock the Tiger supposedly jumped over. The river was narrow and churning - I wouldn’t have signed up for any white water rasting on itM

After the obligatory photo opportunity we had the long haul back up, taking about 15 minutes on steps, then a 3.5 hour drive to Dali.

Disappointing news is that we won’t be going to the Fire Festival, one of the reasons we chose this trip, as it has been cancelled. The guide cant seem to be able to give a straight answer to anything but the gist of it seems that it is something to do with the fact that a new road is being built close to the village, it is local politics and the Bai people have been told they can’t have the festival this year. Maybe we are cynical, but we suspect it is another control of the ethnic minorities who were benefiting from tourism.

After arriving in Dali and checking-in, we had lunch in a nice little place, then walked to see the 3 pagodas. Yet again, these are new constructions. We went by an armoured vehicle with 4 holes on each side for issuing tear gas, with a soldier looked out of his hatch. There was also a prominent police presence.

This is a tourist town but has a more authentic feel than the Disney perfect Lijiang. Saskia and I went shopping and bargained for a skirt each.