Tuesday: Joe Shows Us A Starfish

We left our floating lodge after breakfast and headed out on to the water.  The morning was great fun, rock pooling and learning about what Joe frequently calls the intertidal life - including our starfish friend here, who was returned to safety as soon as this photo was taken.  

We had lunch on a beach, close to a single grave of a Japanese woman who died there in 1912 at the age of 30.  There were no other signs that there had been life there other than that.  Imagine arriving on the Queen Charlotte Islands (as they were then) from Japan - it must have been beyond all her expectations.  

One of our most significant experiences on this trip was visiting the village of Sgang Gwaay which we did today - a designated world heritage site due to its historical total poles.  It was one of the many places that lost 90% of its indigenous population to smallpox in the 1870s or so - the remaining population was so decimated they were forced to move and abandon their land.  It did have a very solemn atmosphere but was also stunning.  

As we headed to our overnight accommodation at the former whaling station of Rose Harbour, we saw a whale, slapping its fin. Then another, and another - the grand total being 9.   We saw them breach too - no photo would have done them justice so I just watched.....

The day was wet, wet, wet and we were all soggy by the end - but none of it took away from the experience which was nothing short of incredible.  We hunkered down in a completely off grid house in Rose Harbour where we had a fantastic meal made for us by the local chef, Francis.  

Extras:
i) Climbing up that hill;
ii) The (rain spattered) totems of Sgang Gwaay