We made it to Persepolis!

Left at 3.45am and most were straight to sleep. About 7.30 we had to stop as regulations for the driver stipulated it was time. We had a breakfast box of lavash, boiled egg and honey. It was cold on the bus till the sun got well up and by 9 we arrived at Parsegarde, where Cyrus had a great battle to unite the country. A great city was built on the vast dusty plain - not much remains though his tomb is imposing. As this is his anniversary there was a big police and security force presence at the entrance, as they were closing the site because in previous years the had been demonstrating against the regime held there. But with Amir’s persuasive tongue and after a cursory check of the bus to ascertain we had no student revolutionaries aboard, we were allowed to pass.

Next we drove on to the rock-hewn royal tombs of Naqsh-e Rustam because it too will be closed while we are in Shiraz. Mount Rushmore eat your heart out - huge inscriptions and carvings around the entrance to the tombs where Darius I and his successors are buried.

We then stopped for a pleasant buffet lunch costing under £5 each. The usual barley soup, salads, yogurt, aubergine stew, fish, rice etc
I found a book of Rumi’s poems, with beautiful artwork and English translation for #2 daughter’s Christmas. (She loved Iran when she and her then boyfriend drove a truck home from Nepal)

We arrived at Persepolis at 2 and spent 3 hours exploring the site and it’s treasures. The city was founded by Darius in 512 BCE. There was nowhere more impressive in the ancient world except perhaps Karnak in Egypt. Darius built the terrace , the great audience hall, the palace and monumental staircase with its stunning carvings. His son Xerxes added the harem and hall of 100 columns. The site encompasses 120,000 sq metres. The soaring pillars, terraces and magnificent bas reliefs were so impressive. I’m so grateful that we were able to see such a splendid place. We also saw in the woods the remains of the tented structures erected for the Shah’s last big extravaganza when he entertained forge in heads of state in 1971 to celebrate 2500 years of Persia. It was very decadent with champagne. french chefs and air conditioned tents.

We have 3 nights in Shiraz but whether any of the sites will be open is still unknown.

We are shattered after 15 hours on the go and 5 miles walked.

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