Biodiversity

Monday's adventure included an unsuccessful trip down a road towards a headland that turned out to be impassable as it is being resurfaced by the Council followed by a trip across to Luing, one of the slate islands and a new island for us. This proved to be very enjoyable. Our visit took in Black Mill Bay, which was once a port that was busy with the export of slate from the island (and cattle as well, probably), as well as the passage of steamers arriving from Glasgow and heading to and from Oban in the north. This page (a fascinating history of David MacBraynes - now Calmac) gives some history about how steamers became the primary form of transport up the west coast from Glasgow. They only ceased around 1928, and they predated the arrival of the railway (around 1880 to Oban and the West Highland Line to Fort William). I suspect that after 1928, lacking the direct connection to Glasgow, Black Mill Bay started to decline.

After a wander out onto the headland at Black Mill Bay, we pottered back to Cullipool, which is sort of the island's capital. There we found disused slate quarries to wander into, including one that was not full of water and which was being gradually reclaimed by nature. Offering a sheltered micro climate, the biodiversity was amazing, despite the historic absence of soil. With another fifty years, nature will have taken over completely.

We were completely charmed by Luing (pronounced ling) and plan to go back there for a short break. Not many services on the island were open, and there were notices up dissuading visitors from coming (but not forbidding them). We kept ourselves to ourselves, and were careful not to touch any metal gates with our hands.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed another excellent meal in the restaurant.