Chiang Mai

Early morning arrival. I´d forgotten to prepare Ul for the traveller-ness. Unfortunately we hit hippy central for breakfast: the wall opposite advertises hypnotherapy, reiki, improvements on your self-confidence and sex-life, how to find your centre point, and asks if you still believe in cancer. It doesn´t look like we´ll be staying long.

The day is dedicated to trying to escape people like us - an esoteric quest doomed to failure. However, in the process we do discover there is substantially more to Chang Mai than the groccle stores and scantily clad hordes. It´s laid back, leafy green and charming, with endless good food stalls and temples, golden in the evening light - and cats and dogs fattly dosing on every corner. Even Ul starts to warm to it: it must be OK if the cats and dogs - and birds - are so well fed. Thailand magic starts to creep into the speed of life.