The power that is says no departure until the lurgy is gone. We postpone motorbikes and change our tickets back. I sweat some more.

An evening meander away from down town. It's not much more lively. Strange country with its communist government, over-run by the Japanese during WWII, years of power struggle and post-colonial war against the French, bombed to bits during Vietnam and abandoned by the Americans, rife with power shifts and revenge, and slow opening up in the last 20 years or so. Evident similarities with sub-Saharan dictatorships: oversized black-out windowed cars, white elephant massive construction, and dozy. Not the greatest record on human rights or good governance. But also less drive and bustle than African capitals, certainly more culture and sophistication, and generally a more relaxed place to be.