The fever grows. We're settling into a routine for Vientiane wandering between breakfast, fruit, noodle and rice stalls, with a couple of hours in a posh café here and there. Fantastic people watching. Several bookshops to meander listlessly and blissfully through. Vietnam war books R us -blood and incompetence, tales of American daring do and political carelessness the background to the days here. It's hard to imagine this place at war, let alone as a country hit by an entire flight full of bombs every eight minutes 24/ 7 for 8 years.

I'm doing remarkably well (I think) at being good humoured. Until it becomes apparent that the fever continues unabated and we won't be leaving tomorrow or biking any time soon. Secret relief as not sure could battle the bike in the heat and hills with post-lurgy post-weight-loss strength. Humour's appeased over cocktails besides the river: bliss.