Hermaness

A back blip due to lack of internet or 4G signal! 

It’s our last full day in Shetland, and it doesn’t disappoint. Somehow, I’d expected Unst to be bleak - wet, windy and cold. Nothing could be further from the truth as far as today’s concerned. 

Admittedly it’s cool and misty as we start our walk to the cliffs in Hermaness, but it’s mild, and all the time the clouds are lifting. It’s a fair walk to the cliffs, but to see anything other than the admittedly spectacular scenery, this is just the start. Now it’s a case of descending the steep slopes to the lower cliffs below, before walking along to the point where the wonderfully named Muckle Flugga and Out Stack can be seen - the rocky islands that really form Britain’s northerly limits. Next stop, the North Pole. 

Whilst the scenery stars, below us are thousands of gannets nesting and flying  on the offshore stacks - though close encounters aren’t on offer here. There are clearly many puffin burrows on the cliffs themselves, but we’ve only spotted one or two on our way down.  Now, however, they are returning, and we spend some time enjoying their antics at close quarters before facing the steep climb back up to the top.  It occurs to me how little effort Bempton is in comparison to this! Not only are there the long, steep walks, but this is a cliff edge that is constantly at an angle with areas of land clearly starting to slide down towards the sea. The leaflet warns against wearing waterproof trousers as any slip could lead to a slide over the edge itself. I’m just glad it’s dry today. 

We survive the ascent, and make our way back to the car to continue our Unst exploration. We make our way to Scaw and see the UK’s most northerly house - this is an area with tick-list attractions - then on to Norwick beach. G drops me off at one end while he goes to park. Too late I realise the bank of stones bordering the sand is actually the nesting area of a colony of very aggressive Arctic terns who immediately start bombarding me, shrieking as they attack. There’s nothing for it but to duck down and run at the same time - hardly my best moment, but I survive! 

Norwick is stunning - the closest we’ve come to the beaches of Lewis where peaty streams ripple out over the white sand between glorious rock sculptures. Amazingly, this little beach marks a point of contact between the two great forces of Continental and Oceanic crusts - Shetland never ceases to amaze. 

It’s on to see the famous Bobby’s Bus Shelter, furnished with almost every comfort - though we’ve noticed that the placing of armchairs in bus shelters is almost standard on theses northern isles - and we buy some date slices from the adjacent honesty box.

We watch seals at Haroldswick jetty, four of them gracelessly manoeuvring as if to pose in line for a photo shoot, and visit the reconstructed Viking longhouse and Skidbladner longship - both beautifully done. 

And finally we head off to the wilder west to see Underhoull broch and surrounding Norse ruins - stunningly situated on the hill overlooking swathes of rich green countryside and the now sparking sea beyond, before a final stop at the Bordastubble standing stone where G inevitably has to pose, but at least this gives a sense of scale. 

We’ve had the most wonderful day on this most northerly of isles, and return to our B&B happy but exhausted. 

Today’s main just has to be a puffin - it’s probably the last I’ll see this year. By now blip puffins are so commonplace, I think we all want them flying in with sand eels or doing something equally spectacular - but it’s just a puffin staring soulfully out to sea. Then there are several collages - sorry, a bit of an overkill - and one of Norwick beach. 

No chance of looking at your journals or replying to comments - if there’s internet on the boat tonight, I’ll try to catch up - but thanks again for sticking with me.