Magical

free spiral (Queen of Holy Wells) reminded me that, although we had been here in Cornwall a week, we had not visited one of the wonderful wells which I know are around here. My excuse is that most seem to involve tramping along overgrown and muddy paths, not my favourite thing, and anyway I had acquired a big book of Cornwall’s Wells, but had to leave it at home as it was too heavy. 

However, today, after a lovely Sunday lunch and realising that there was rain around, we gave up the plan to visit a beach and go well-hunting instead. 

Sancreed Holy Well
The village of Sancreed is a bit remote but there is a church and the Holy Well is signed from the road opposite (by the telephone box). It is a fairly muddy path. but well trodden and quite mysterious as it weaves its way through the shrubbery. It was like walking through a grotto. And then a set of worn stone steps and the remains of a metal hand rail (see Extra) indicate that one has arrived. 

It is a lovely place. Stone slabs surround the entrance to a pool and there are steps leading down to the water. I decided against going down them! The entrance shines with a mossy green phosphorescence - quite magical. In the branches around are hung ‘clouties’, small strips of coloured cloth which were to do with the healing powers of the water - as the cloutie disintegrated, the illness would pass. I think this is probably the first ‘real’ Holy Well I have seen, one that is still visited and cared for. There are the ruins of a chapel close by, now marked with a modern cross with Celtic markings. 

St Creden who gives his name to the well, the church and the village, was a Celtic saint and a follower of St Petroc. Legend has it that, as a penance for accidentally killing his father, he became a swineherd. It is likely nevertheless that he set up some kind of religious community in the area. There are Celtic crosses in the churchyard, I found two of them.