Castrojerez to Frómista stage/day 15
Today was perfect for walking, so clear we could see see snow on the slopes of the Hautes-Pyrénées, sunny with blue skies by coffee time and a stiff breeze that kept the temperature to 21/22 or so. I enjoyed the company of K for the morning, and an afternoon of solitude. I am finding this combination of companionship and seclusion completely restorative.
The track as we climbed towards the Meseta was two thousand years old, Roman remains dotted here and there, including a bridge over the rio Odrilla complete with a wildlife information board that indicted we were in otter and beaver country, holed up well away from the Camino no doubt. The profusion of poppies was the most impressive yet, especially with the mountain backdrop which my phone camera failed to pick up.
I bought a picnic lunch from the only shop in Itero de la Vega which reminded me of the grocers even before my childhood, with one of those terrifying ham sclicers, and everything behind the counter where you have to point to things and say ése no, éste por favor. It’s a bit hit or miss.
The last few six or seven miles into Frómista were very different, having it seemed left the Meseta (I will join it again tomorrow). I spent a very long time in quiet Boadilla del Camino watching the storks, seven nests at least, in the bell tower of the church of Santa María, and all inhabited with quite a bit of coming and going. I am captivated by these birds, they are one of the unexpected joys of the Camino.
The last few miles into Frómista were beside the Canal de Castilla, today’s blip. In high season you can hop on a boat and save your legs the last 3km into the town.
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