40

Michelle and I found it difficult to sleep soundly on the train with the noise, heat and bumpiness. Therefore the birthday was seen in early with cans of sweet coffee and a handful of rusks as the clock struck midnight.

After this we stayed awake a while, leaning out of the window in the moonlight and hoping to see glimpses of wildlife as the train skirted conservation areas in empty parts of Tanzania. No joy and we somehow fell asleep until around 6am.

Michelle reported that she hadn’t been cold during the night but confirmed she had been ‘dropping below optimum temperature’. I soon realised that being 40 has not dampened my need to skewer illogical statements with withering sarcasm.

Birthday messages rolled in from far and wide and it was awesome receiving them when the train picked up phone network. Mariam’s missive urged me to age with grace and called upon the Almighty God to gift me ‘the fruits of spirit and protect against the fruits of flesh’. I don’t think I want to be protected against the fruits of flesh, because they sound fun. I’m planning to engage more in them in my fifth decade.

The day was enjoyable and relaxing, taking in the scenery of the Southern Highlands region as the train left the lowlands and crept up the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley. The pace was comically slow but we knew we’d arrive eventually. A schizophrenic train soundtrack (Shania Twain followed by hiphop) and 27 hours later, we rolled into Mbeya Railway Station in the evening.

We caught a taxi to our lodgings in a hilly area several kilometres outside of Mbeya, and chilled after the journey. Even though we’d been unable to do anything but chill for 27 hours. My mother, living it up in Marrakesh with her mates Mandi and Julie, rang me at 12.30am whilst boozing at dinner. If this is what life involves after 40 (at 70…) then I’m all for it. Showing the youth up.