Bay of Islands

After yesterday’s day of exploring history, today’s our day for exploring the Bay of Islands itself. It’s another gorgeous morning, and after yet another delicious breakfast, we’re off on a boat trip to the Hole in the Rock. 

Of course, it’s beautiful - deep blue seas and lush green shorelines, islands ranging from the fairly large to tiny outcrops, some sporting mini forests of vegetation. Yachts and launches ply the waters, some of epic proportions, with one or two impressive sailing vessels amongst them. 

The sea is generally blissfully calm, but as our large catamaran gathers speed, I decide standing at the prow railings is not the place for me so head back to my seat, and as we head out from the bay into the Pacific, the swell turns the boat into a thrill ride. We pass the rocky headland of the Cape Brett Peninsula, bobbing in the water to view the lighthouse, before the final short trip to the famous rocky island with - you’ve guessed it - a hole running through it. After recent weather, it’s something of a miracle that we’re here at all, but unsurprising, the swell’s too high to attempt a trip through the hole itself. 

It’s back then for a stopover at Otehei beach on Unupukapuka island, where we walk up to a viewpoint, sitting in silence to enjoy the sheer beauty of the scene. And from here, it’s back to lovely Russell. 

By now, it’s hot and the humidity is draining, but we manage a visit to the Pompallier Mission, once home to French missionaries promoting Catholicism to the local Māori and also established the first printing press. I’m too tired to take a tour - the only way of seeing the interior, but we wander through the gorgeous gardens, granted free admission as we are Welsh and can answer the ticket clerk’s question of how to pronounce the word on Welsh police cars - Heddlu or police. Clearly ‘Cymru Noir’ is a genre that’s made it over here! And then we visit Russell church, the oldest in New. Zealand  - a beautiful cream timber building, its peaceful atmosphere at odds with the bullet holes marking one of many conflicts in the area long ago. 

I’m in need of a few hours rest before our dinner out at ‘Sage’ - an upmarket restaurant up in the Paroa Bay Winery (the local wines are excellent), and we sit on the terrace with a stunning out over the hills to the Bay of Islands enjoying a really excellent meal. 

We’ve loved it here, and wish we had at least one more day - but that’s the problem when you’re trying to see so many places! 

My main today’s a view across the Bay of Islands from Unupukapuka, with a collage of shots from our afternoon walk around Russell.