Making pastel de bacalhau

This cafe in the LX Factory puts the chef in the window. He seemed very focused but gave me a curt nod of hello when I smiled.

Lisbon continues to be a place of contrasts and our journey by metro and train down to Alcantare Mar via Cais de Sodre was no exception. The ticket office is chaos, there is no one to help, and none of the escalators are working. All the ticket machines are haunted by guys who help you navigate the unnavigable menus in expectation of a couple of Euros for their help. We encountered two today and they were very pleasant even if we didn't have any change. The second one came running after us when we left a credit card in the machine, which was impressive. We gave him five euros to buy some lunch and a big thank you. 

The LX factory was much bigger and better than we expected and we had a great time shopping the vintage clothes stalls, stopping for drinks and snacks, and browsing the market place. One bit was a standout. There is a bookshop-cum-alternative universe in one building which is enormous and full of oddities. The highlight was a fabulous puppet show giving you the history of Lisbon in two minutes. In return for a donation of a couple of Euros we watched it in turns listening to Fado through earphones as puppet priests, poets, sardine sellers and lovers gave you a performance. 

Another great day. So much to do in this city.