Pico do Arieiro

The alarm goes off at the uncharacteristically early time of 5.00; today we’re off on a return visit to watch the sunrise at Pico do Ariero. Sunrise does not occur until the very civilised hour of 8.00 am - but such is the popularity of Arieiro that we need to arrive early to get a parking place. 

Last year we drove up through the clouds, this year our little Corsa struggles up the hills through cloudless darkness. That the summit will be cloud free is obviously good news, but I suspect we won’t have the wonder of looking down upon a sea of white. 

We’re far from the first there, but we’ve timed our arrival to grab a perfect parking place. Others set off, head torches or phones lighting the way, either starting on the spectacular mountain trail early, or staking a perfect pitch to watch the sunrise. We, meanwhile, sit in the car eating our breakfast in comparative warmth. 

When eventually we do set off, it’s still dark, but the sky is definitely lightening, enough for us to see our way to an easy vantage point, and there below us is that sea of fluffy cloud, stretching far out to the horizon. Above the horizon, however, is a thick haze; we certainty won’t be getting the same sunrise as we did last year. 

Rather than seeing the sun rise majestically above the horizon, there is a hazy glow until a sliver appears from a gap in the hovering mist. Gradually, the sun emerges, softened by the haze, until it rises above to finally reveal its full glory. 

In the gathering light, our fellow sun worshipers emerge from the dark shadows, hundreds of us all brought together for this ancient ritual of watching the start of a new day. Despite the crowds, there’s hardly a sound, all mesmerised to silence by the beauty of the unfolding scene. We’re all sharing a special moment, and I’m fascinated by the different ways this is experienced - some choosing to be alone, others in couples, many in groups. 

We stay for a while, warmed by the sun’s rays, watching the glow of golden light illuminating the spectacular rock formations.  Last year we continued our adventure to the  Ninho da Manta; this year it’s beyond me, and instead I look out at the tiny figures gathered at viewpoint - appropriately the ‘Buzzards’ Nest’ - marvelling at the beauty of the scene. 

And so it’s straight back to the hotel where we unapologetically spend the rest of the day just lazing by the pool - though I do spend rather a lot of time trawling through the many photos that I’ve taken on this magical morning! 

You just know there will be a sunrise set today - there’s just so much to photograph up here. In many ways, my favourite image is the shot of the sky through a collapsed barrier gate, though I’m tempted by the more classic sunrise over the sea of clouds….. 

Edit: I’ve decided to change my main to what was my second choice - typical indecision. 

Many thanks for your kind response to yesterday’s ghostly trees - very much appreciated.