Architecture and Gastronomy

The rain that started yesterday continues today, though ‘light’ rain has progressed to ‘heavy’. We had hoped the forecast would be wrong, but unfortunately it is painfully correct. So a day focusing on the work of the architect Joze Plecnik - or at least some of it - seems a good idea. 

A native of the city, Plecnik worked extensively in Prague and Vienna before returning home where he is credited with the changing the identity of the city from a provincial city into the symbolic capital of the Slovenian people. Influenced by both classical architecture and the symbolic power, Plecnik constructed  public spaces (squares, parks, streets, promenades, bridges) and public institutions (national library, churches, markets, funerary complex) that were sensitively integrated into the existing city and contributed to its new identity.

We visit the National and University Library and absolutely love it. Plecnik plays on the idea of moving from the darkness of ignorance in his use of dark stone and limited light, to the brightness of knowledge and enlightenment. The darkness of stone columns contrasts  with the warm glow of softly curved wood - a nod to his father’s carpentry - the whole  building is beautiful.  We can’t visit the famous reading room, but watch students studying in groups in the basement study area - the light from their laptops illuminating their faces in an almost Rembrandtesque manner.  

Then we visit Plecnik’s house. I’m expecting the same organic curves and lines, but this is austere monastic living - chairs that are hard and perpendicular; a bed that he made for himself - too small for his tall physique - so he would never be tempted to lie in bed; cold and uninviting reception areas designed to chase away visitors. Yet here was a man dedicated to designing a beautiful city and equally dedicated to educating his students to become architects of the future. 

So, despite the weather, it’s a successful day. We return to the hotel to dry out and prepare for this evening’s adventure: a five course tasting menu in Strelec - a Michelin starred restaurant spectacularly sited in the Archer’s Tower of Ljubljana Castle. Needless to say, it’s absolutely wonderful, as is the wine pairing of Slovenian wines and indeed the service. It’s definitely indulgent, but we’re treating it as part of G’s ongoing birthday celebrations! 

There’s more on Plecnik’s contribution to Ljubljana in the following UNESCO article: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1643/

So today’s main is the main staircase of Plecnik’s library, with extra collages of the students studying there and of our Strelec meal.