Llynnau Cregennen

It’s the most beautiful spring day for our journey south. Though we’re not travelling far, south Eryri seems almost like a foreign country. Part of it is the sunshine, and sitting outside a pub in Dolgellau - me drinking wine and G hot chocolate! - it feels rather like southern France. The little town’s now bypassed and seems quaint and undisturbed rather than traffic-choked, full of interesting little shops and cafes, slate grey cottages cheerful in the sunshine.  

We drag ourselves away and head up a steep and winding single track road to Llynnau Cregennen, two lakes situated in the shadows of Cadair Idris’s northern slopes. The route takes us through farmland, several gates needing to be opened and closed, and for every farm now existing there are several dotted around the slopes in various stages of decay. It’s a beautiful ancient landscape with evidence of 4000 years of human activity, rich in standing stones and hut circles predating the miles of beautiful drystone walls and ruined sheep pens. There’s an undeniable air of history and mysticism here - allegedly, these lakes had ritual importance on a Bronze Age route through the mountains to the sea. 

Apparently best at sunrise when the stillness of the air produces ideal conditions for reflections, being here in the afternoon is still beautiful despite the brisk breeze rippling the surface.  The light is glorious, burnishing dull browns and ochres, and as we return towards the coast, the muted colours of the Mawddach estuary stretch magically before us. 

And so it’s back to Penmaenuchaf Hall for a brief relax before our delicious tasting menu! 

It will come as no surprise to find a Llynnau Cregennan set today - my main some old farm ruins on the hillside, with the estuary stretching out below. 

Apologies for lack of comments while we’re away - though in truth I’m usually so far behind, you’ll probably notice little difference!