am bioran

By AmBioran

The southern bit of the north-west coast of Jura

Day three of my walk round the coast started in a flapping tent as a gusting easterly wind blew down off the high ground of the island to my tent at the shore. 

Packed up and continued south, looking for the goat tracks that would lead me to the top of the cliffs. At one point I found myself on top of a natural arch in the cliff carved by the sea millenia ago; scrambling down to the foot of the cliff I found the remains of Julie Brook's wooden shelter that she lived in the 1990s. Just a ruined shell full of goat sh1t now. 

One thing (among many on this walk) that I noticed was the number of deer and goat remains lying at the foot of cliffs or inside caves. Horns, ribcages and jawbones a plenty. 

Onwards to Shian Bay where a group of Greylag geese complained of my presence. The goats scampered off inland at the noise. 

For the next stretch I passed by the remarkable inland beaches of quartzite pebble/rocks left by lowering sea levels after the rebound of the land when the ice retreated 15000 years ago. It was strange to see barnacle worn rocks 500m from the sea. Ancient land. Don't think about the rocks...

The bothy of Ruantallain was remote, a day's walk from any road. Most visitors come by boat according the visitor book. 

This marked the point where the coastline turns east along the shore of Loch Tarbert and I was now heading into the sun, regretting not bringing a sunhat or glasses. 

Finally a 'track' became visible in the grass that I was able to follow over the undulating moorland, looking over my shoulder back at Colonsay and the beaches of Oronsay visible out west. 

At last I reached Cruib and made myself at home in the excellent bothy for the night. Again only two others had visited in 2024 according to the book. I thought I was alone for the night....

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