Buzzing

Yesterday I didn't do anything interesting enough to blip, and in any case the only way to overcome the backblipping is to skip a day.

This morning we went to the market in Olonzac, a rare occurrence as it's quite far away. But we needed to replenish our spice supplies, and the spice merchant doesn't come to Lézignan market any more, just one symbol of its decline. Olonzac market is very busy and lively. Some of the same traders who go to Lézignan,  but also  a whole lot more -- many local producers of fruit and vegetables, stalls selling takeaway food, at least five cheese stalls including the cheesemonger we buy from in Lézignan. It fills the town centre and was absolutely heaving.

S left our list with the man at the spice stall so that he could do it in gaps between customers while we wandered the market, buying lovely fresh fruit and veg, plus cheese of course. Once done we went for the obligatory coffee at the Café de la Poste, having bought a pain au raisin and a rarely seen jésuite (yum) to restore our strength. It was so busy that there were no seats on the large terrace. We watched open-mouthed as the waitress wove between the tables, her tray stacked three tiers high with cups of coffee. Sitting inside got us our coffees relatively quickly from one of the four staff behind the bar, who never stopped moving.

As we left, we couldn't help remarking on the difference between this thriving scene and the slow, sad decline of the once equally busy market in Lézignan. For sure most things are more expensive in Olonzac for the same quality ... "The fact is," said S, "that there are loads of well-off foreigners in the Minervois who can afford to shop at the market instead of going to Lidl." It's true ... ever since we've been here it's been really noticeable that there are far more foreigners in the Minervois than the Corbières, and you hear at least as much English and Dutch in Olonzac market as you do French -- there's even a Dutchman with a stall selling exclusively Gouda cheese.

In the evening ... well, it was pizza night. Despite it being slightly chilly, there was a good turnout of regulars, and we ate pizza and drank rosé with Ingrid and G, plus various other neighbours. Maybe the last of the season if the weather doesn't improve.