Poya at Anuradhapura

Now in the eastern side of Sri Lanka, we had really been looking forward to our excursion to Anuradhapura. Surprisingly, apparently we were the only ones to opt for this, so we’ve had to opt for a private tour - better of course, but inevitably more costly! 

We drive through lunch countryside alternating between palm trees and paddy fields, eventually coming to the ancient first capital of the country. Like the caves of Maharashtra, the sacred city had disappeared under jungle vegetation until it was rediscovered and unearthed in the C19th. Famed for its monasteries and beaut stupas, the former are now simple low walled ruins, whereas the latter tower over the site - either gleaming white or the earth colour of their brick built structures. For some reason I had envisioned the site as being in arid open country, while in reality, it exists very much alongside the modern city and sits in the same lush tropical vegetation we’ve been passing through this morning. 

First we visit Ruvanvali Stupa. We’re aware that this is a sacred place but we’re definitely not prepared for the sheer volume of Buddhist pilgrims here today. It’s the day after the full moon Poya festival - a public holiday in Sri Lanka - but you’d never know this looking at the crowds. Most are dressed in white and carry offerings in the form of flowers, fruit or rice dishes. Some are alone or in family groups, but many have come as part of village pilgrimages, moving through the crowds like waves of humanity, led by musicians in costumes of red and white and carrying huge floral tributes carried on wooden platforms. 

For us, this is absolutely fascinating; I’m constantly trying to take photographs to capture these scenes - challenging as we’re in the middle of constantly moving crowds. The smell of flowers and incense hangs in the air, smoke rising from burners sometimes carried by pilgrims, or from large stationary containers of smouldering sticks. There are even temple dancers who perform in the precincts of the stupa - beautifully dressed with elaborate headdresses - the expert older girls in front the novice youngsters in the rows behind. 

It’s hot - very hot - and of course, we’re barefoot and have had to remove hats as well, but I’m absolutely in my element as we walk slowly clockwise round the stupa, past table after table of offerings, and pilgrims praying privately or joining groups led by chanting saffron-clad monks. 

Our guide despairs of ever moving us - or at least me - on to the sacred tree which is also attracting hundreds of pilgrims. Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is reputed to be the oldest cultivated tree in the world having been grown from a branch of …. Brought to Sri Lanka in …….
We join the throngs ascending the steep steps to the temple area almost within the tree itself - again in the midst of offerings and chants. It really is incredible to watch. 

We wander past the monastery ruins before visiting the two brick stupa - first Abhayagiriva Stupa then finally Jetavana Stupa - the largest stupa in the world. Architecturally phenomenal considering the skill needed to construct these massive domes from bricks. 

We start the return drive towards the ship at Trincomalee, diverting to the actual town for a quick visit. We’re eager to see the temple high on the rocks in the centre of the old Portuguese fort. This involves a fast  and furious walk uphill through the settlement - primarily featuring stalls selling fruit, food and souvenirs.  We’re running late and in fairness this was never actually part of our tour. By the time we reach the temple we’re all breathless and unsurprisingly dripping with sweat. The temple has now closed, and disappointingly the light has now faded - it’s close to sunset - so it’s impossible to capture the scene as I would like to. Still, we’re pleased to have seen it - and the chasm between two rock faces that is known as ‘Lover’s Leap’ after the legend of the princess who chose death rather than marriage to someone she didn’t love. 

It’s been a fantastic and memorable day at the sacred city - it’s so special to experience this type of totally genuine event, especially one that’s completely unexpected.