Hungry Hill

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After a chilled day yesterday finding my Sheepshead feet, seeing what TJ has been up to on her land here (it was April when I was last here), taking a short drive out to the north coast (and enjoying a short run back to stretch the legs), having Freespiral and Himself over for dinner in the evening (so lovely to catch up with you both), today has been a little more energetic.

With Rosie and Ben, we drove around to the Beara peninsular with the hope of climbing Hungry Hill. This mountain (it really is substantially more than a hill) has held a fascination for me ever since I first saw it from TJ's farm, on the opposite side of Bantry Bay. I've only rarely seen its summit, as it often has its own weather system and is usually enshrouded by cloud, even when all the other tops are clear. Earlier this year we got halfway to the top but got beaten back my a combination of deteriorating weather and failing daylight. It's a serious proposition. Unlike England where any such major hill has myriad well worn tracks to take you to the summit, the Irish mountains are far less frequented and altogether wilder places.

We chose a different route this time, starting further west and following the Beara way footpath (which skirts around the base of the mountain) for a while before choosing a line up though a labyrinth of crags. There was an obvious line of weakness, a narrow and vertiginous grassy trod, which we managed to follow pretty much all the way to the summit plateau. Once up there we felt the force of the very strong wind, visiting the trig point and the cairn which mark the twin tops of Hungry Hill. From there we found a casually waymarked trail along the ridge to the east, winding its way down through heavily fractured rock, often revealing beautiful natural sculptures.

The weather looked like it was going to close in but we actually enjoyed intermittent sunshine on the descent and just one very short shower. Halfway down the ridge we turned off south to rejoin the Beara Way path and to complete our circuit. It was only five minutes from the car that we encountered our first heavy shower, but we were close enough not to get too wet. It was by now quite late afternoon and there was a unanimous vote to head into Castletownbeare for some food. Murphy's provided some very hearty and welcome fare indeed.

TJ has been looking upon this hill on a daily basis for some 20 years. It was rather lovely to have accompanied her to the summit for the first time today! I doubt it will be the last. I'm growing to love this complex, imposing and moody mountain.

Finally, thank you so much for all your good wishes and comments over the last fee days. You're all so lovely.